YO! OK, just fishing for first hand opinions here...whut would you recommend? Harness will be mainly used for; Long alpine rock routes mostly free w/ minimal aid, winter ascents in the Sierra, Tetons, and Rockies (mostly Sierra), and other assorted big routes in Alaska and Canada...

So, Needs to be comfy (I DO forsee hanging belays...so no "bod" styles...), light, fully adjustable, fully featured, ziplock buckles, and have a haul loop!

I have the Misty Mountain cadillac and love it, but it is too bulky and heavy (20oz) for the alpine and the double-back buckles are a pain to adjust quickly whilst glacier walking, belaying, etc.

I'm looking into:

Arcteryx X350a
Camp Quartz CR
Petzl Corax (or the NEW Calidris)
Wild Country Syncro Ultralite

Any other suggestion? Any opinions on the above harnesses? Let's pretend price is no issue (for now...)

Thanks!

I shopped many of the same harnesses you mentioned, but at the recommendation of a guy in a local store, i got the Arcterix R320. I have to say i'm really impressed; more than i expected to be. It distributes weight like no harness i've ever worn, and it has a haul loop like you mentioned. Its unbelievably light as well. A little pricey, but man what a great harness.

I use the X350. I can't imagine how to improve it other than perhaps, though I dont know, longevity.

I've tried the Petzl and the Camp. Both are fine, with minor differences in fit.

The clippy things to drop the harness without unbuckling it (on the Camp) would be awful to do with gloves or frozen fingers. If that is a deciding factor, think twice - try it in the store.

Yea...I AM leaning towards the Arcteryx...but it has a coupla details that bug me...one is the price (even though I said it was a nonissue above, $150 is hard to ignore!) and the other is the chincy, weak haul loop. It is rated at 33lbs (the gear loops are rated at 11lbs!)...If I were to buy this harness I would tie a webbing haul loop around the waist belt in back and possibly cut the stock one off. At $150 I expect the harness to be PERFECT and these weak points make it, well, "less than."

The Petzl, while being almost as heavy as the Mist Mountain, does have the ziplock buckles which I have found myself wanting badly while fucking with the double backs w/ gloves on...whut is the haul loop on like the petzls?

One that fits and does everything you want it to do, but fit is most important.....

So I did a bit of research for anyone that's bored enuf to follow this thread...Petzl gear loops are rated to 11lbs (or 5kg) just like Arcteryx's...while Misty Mountain Threadworks claims 400lbs (!!!) on theirs...and yes, I'm still talkin' 'bout gear loops!

Speaking of gear loops... one consideration with an alpine harness is what type of alpine climbs you will be doing.

If you're doing a lot of schlepping a big pack around with a harness (e.g. crossing glaciers), you may want to consider trying on harnesses with your pack (loaded, of course) and layers. A couple years back in Alaska, I found myself cutting the gear loops off my BD Blizzard because they had grown too uncomfortable under my pack, after extended use. The same consideration would go for the harness padding, too.

OK, I just got the new Arcteryx X350a and besides the queasy feeling in my stomach from spending $150 on a freakin harness, I'm pretty stoked. There are a few things, after some hands-on examination, that might prove to be issues in the future. For example, the way the leg loops are attatched to the lower tie-in point creates a high-wear/high-stress point. And with the webbing as thin as it is already, I will be checking that spot everytime I use the thing. Also, the Drop seat hook is a muthrfkr to get off...can't imagine doing it w/ gloves on...

It should last quite awhile as I still plan to use my Misty Mountain Cadillac for most routes, only breaking out the Arcteryx when weight really matters like in say Alaska, or the Bugaboos, etc...

I'll post more here after using it more. Out of the box, off my hangboard it was really comfy and fit well. If anyone has fit questions feel free to ask me!

Vic

Anyone try the new "SA" or Speed Adjust harnesses from Black Diamond? Seems like the buckle may work loose over the course of a day. The Arcteryx harnesses seem to have a similar buckle, though I haven't had one in my hand yet. Any issues?

The C.A.M.P. also has buckles that allow you dis-assemble for easy removal with boots, crampons, skis, etc...

Don't have any experience with the other styles...good luck in your search...