Hey,

I am pretty new to the site and relatively new to leading. My modest rack currently consists of C4's (0.75-3) as well as a full set of DMM wallnuts. Right now I am contemplating a set of hexes. I was hoping to get some feedback on what people prefer, Black Diamond's Wired Hexes or Metolius Curved Hexes? I don't have any experience placing curved hexes , however, I like the curve hex design and am seriously contemplating a set of them over BD. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

I know you asked specifically about the wired hexes, but I am a big fan of the Wild Country Chocks. They are slung with slings eliminating the need for draws. While the wires do have their own positives I have found the WC hexes way easier to deal with.

Buy the three largest Wild Country hexes and save the rest of your money for more cams.

If you've got up to a #3 camalot, you really don't need hexes. Or rarely anyway.

Get a single BD#11 and you'll use it twice in the next year then give it to one of your friends.

Don't buy a set, it's a waste.

i say, shit-can your #12 and #13 stoppers, and carry only #5,6,7 hexes.

I'm a fan of the Metolius curve hexes myself, but I've only placed the 3 or 4 largest ones. I think those are useful. Other than that, cams. Don't need the smaller ones IMO. You can get 4 for around the price of one cam, and sometimes they can be used where a cam won't work.

So it sound's like you guys think a full set would be a waste...what about this:

http://www.backcountry.com/store/MET0207/Metolius-Curve-Hex->>>>>

Or is that even overkill...should I just save my green for cams, booze and hookers?

The trouble with climbers these days is there simply isn't enough cowbell.


I'm a Metolius man.

Alpine: Hexes in the BD Equivalent size 6-9 seem to be the most versatile, because the range covered by setting them camming or sideways seems to cover the broadest common-use range (.75-3 BD Cam size). Smaller sizes are typically covered by large stoppers or small tri-cams or cams (which are actually relatively light). Larger sizes aren't often needed on alpine routes.

I would avoid wired hexes.

i'm a fairly new leader as well, and what leading i've done has been on wallnuts, BD hexes, and some camalots and friends. cams are wonderfully easy, but i've found it really pays to toss a hex in if you can, thus saving your cams for later on in the route when you might be more pumped or wigged out. this applies doubly on more sustained cracks, where hexes make for a light, cheap, bomber alternative to carrying several of the same or similar size cams.

that said, i have noticed that the angular BD hexes do sort of fight placement when placed with their length parallel to the crack. i haven't used the WC rockcentrics or Metolius Curved Hexes, but as i consider buying gear i'm leaning toward the WC's. i like the fact that they're on dyneema instead of wire, and the metolius ones sort of scare me with all those curves.

Don't you guys know about the hex toss grapple hook method??? Geeze, you all take the fun out of gear.

I think we should ban all cams; a no cam park.

I'm a big fan of hexes, and prefer the 70 style: straight (no curve, no taper), slung about 18 inches on perlon. In conventional hexes I don't usually have anything other than #6 up to #9 (old Chouinard #6 is about 1x1.5", #9 is 2x2.5")-- unless I'm doing a "hexes-only" day.

I always cover the half-inch to one-inch range with hexes also-- just not the conventional type. I carry the long-discontinued Doltnuts on over-the-shoulder slings, and don't bother with stoppers unless they are real thin. See this Photo for example.

I just noticed your BD cam sizes. If you don't have any smaller cams yet (TCUs/Aliens, etc.) then I would definitely not waste one dime on hexes until I acquired at least two small camming units.

Smaller cams are on the agenda as well. Once again, I am split between BD and Metolius. I have messed around with the new Master Cams a little and was quite impressed. However, C3s are pretty sweet as well...

When I was young (in high school) and poor, our standard rack was: a set of nuts, a set of hexes (straight-sided), and maybe 4 cams.

Now that I'm old and averse to carrying heavy weights, my standard rack is: a set of nuts, a set of cams, and maybe 4 hexes. Unless you are climbing a long crack that you know to be unrelentingly parallel or flaring, using hexes will save you weight.

On easy routes I often revert to my high school rack, especially if I'm heading up into the backcountry.

I like curved nuts but straight hexes. I also prefer slinging my own hexes with perlon or tech cord.

regarding size #5-7, they make good lightweight belay pieces, so you dont have to burn precious McDonald's cams (BD #1 and #2) at a belay...

about the only reason i rack those hexes, other than for nostalgia.

Hey, there's no school like the old school! There is absolutely nothing more bomber than a well-placed hex and I'd rather take a whipper that than anything else. These days I carry BD #5-9 or so, occasionally the bigger stuff, as well as a full set of stoppers and BD Cams #.3-3. Haven't tried the curved hexes myself, but I can see where they might be handy.

I love to place a bomber hex. However, my main problem is that no one else I climb with wants to place them. So they end up being a bit of a waste on most adventures. I guess I would feel the same if someone brought tri-cams.

I can say BD hexes when placed well are so utterly perfect you almost want to climb up 30 feet and lob off just to test it. Not that I'm into that, but I'll take a good hex over anything else. I usually carry 3 or 4 of the mid-sized ones (6,7,8, or 9) if I carry them at all. The big size get very bulky and I don't find placements as often (kind of like the "should we bring the #4 cam" debate) and you might as well just use nuts for the small ones.

They are great at belays, save weight instead of doubling up on cams. I typically bring them for more moderate alpine climbing. If it gets hard for me I'd rather have a bit more weight with more cams, but be able to quickly fire in more gear....sorry not at all answering the question about curved as I've never used them.