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Are Alien Cams Gonna Kill You?

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By andy patterson
Administrator
From Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 22, 2008
Pickin' in the Creek, Winter, 2007

Recently, I had an Alien cam (the purple size, which is roughly equivalent to the #1 BD cam) completely fail on me. The failure was catastrophic: the lobes completely separated from the stem. I realize that cams can fail when placed poorly, but this cam was set very carefully and properly in a clean, hand-sized crack. What's more, the previous day I encountered a climber who had a small blue Alien break when he fell on it while leading. To be sure, my stories are purely anecdotal, but I seem to keep finding climbers who have their own Alien "horror" stories. Am I the only one who thinks this is an issue? While I'm not out to slam the manufacturers at CCH, I'd like to hear if anyone else has their own examples of cam failure/problems.

Here's to hoping that I'm crazy and have just been very unlucky,

ANDY PATTERSON

By Sir Camsalot
Apr 22, 2008

unless you decide to climb with them they're perfectly safe!

By jon vandub
From westminster,co
Apr 22, 2008

like dude,,,,,, WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN????

DID YOU CHECK THE DATES?????
DID YOU LOOK FOR THE DIMPLE AT THE BASE OF THE KNOB?????

IF YOU HAVNT DONT USE EM!!!!!

By Josh Audrey
From LAS VEGAS
Apr 22, 2008
chillin after a climb

Dude, what I can't beleive is you used a purple alien!
that size is for retards. If your gonna use aliens at least
get the badass sizes. Black through red. I understand
some people don't use them at all because of their history of being
"unsafe",but come on a purple alien!
josh
P.S. You seriously are just finding this out?
you know.....that purple aliens retarded.

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Apr 22, 2008
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

Aliens don't kill, they just want the same opportunity to the pursuit of happyness as everyone else.

(I use purple, but then again, I am a retard)

By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Apr 22, 2008
-

andy-

what are the dates on these cams?

can you check the recall posting at http://www.aliencamsbycch.com and give us more detailed information/photos?

By Jared Workman
From Boulder
Apr 22, 2008

I wouldn't trust a single one that wasn't independently pull tested.

By asmith
Apr 22, 2008

Additionally, even after some of the cams have been recalled there have been issues with quality control-oops- there are lots of threads on this at rockclimbing.com

I have no idea if cch has fixed the problems they had. Hopefully they have
If you are like me and have some aliens that are from the recall time (i had 5 that were from the month prior to the recall), but don't trust cch to do it, and don't have a pull tester at home---here is a guy that is doing pull testing.
He tested some of my cams and took pics of them being tested so that i could verify they were tested. Having them tested have brought them back to my rack.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=18>>>>>

By Malcolm Daly
From Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2008

Hey Andy,
You didn't mention if you got hurt or not. Hope not....

Post up some pics of the broken Alien. I'd love to see the failure mode.

Mal

By Jed Pointer
From Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2008

They appear to have no formal process control. This means manufacturing variation is not monitored (ie, 3 sigma). This means the process is out of control and nobody has any idea what percent can be expected to fail (ie, where the ends of the bell curve are - or how "flat" that bell curve is). Anecdotes of so and so's Aliens holding a fall or some other's Aliens holding a pull test are utterly insignificant and meaningless in the context of what it takes to effect real process control and monitoring - and people speaking of these things as if they have meaning are only demonstrating their cluelessness. That said, the "Testing" section of CCH's website is disturbing. If you have any engineering process control experience, you'll certainly find the site to be a joke (or a nightmare if you're still using these things). Have a look.

The only indicator we have is the number of failure reports on the internet. Given how often a climber whips to the point of generating 1k lb+ forces (or whatever) at the gear placement, that any are failing at all is quite disturbing to me. It suggests a very flat and wide bell curve - ie, horrible process quality and control. The failure mode on post dimple recall Aliens is also very disturbing - ie, what appears to me as overheating the fine wire they use (ie, high strand count cable overcooked in brazing process perhaps to compensate for the undercooking of prior failures).

I've had my Master Cams for 2 mos now and feel they are superior in every way to Aliens. Thus, I have no reason to use Aliens or bother with this "test a couple and speculate" circus. I think Master Cams will take a year or two to catch on and will put CCH out of business, if the lawsuits don't get them first. Also consider REI, MGear, Neptune's and many others have dropped CCH.

By John Langston
Apr 22, 2008

healyje to thread!!!!

healyje to thread!!!!

By Sam Grenlie
From Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 28, 2008

There's a lot of talk about independently testing the tensile strength... who does this? Is there somewhere to get them both reslung and tested?

By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Aug 28, 2008
great white throne as seen from moonlight buttress.

Sam Grenlie wrote:
There's a lot of talk about independently testing the tensile strength... who does this? Is there somewhere to get them both reslung and tested?


yes,

CCH

By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Aug 28, 2008
Russ

andy patterson wrote:
Recently, I had an Alien cam (the purple size, which is roughly equivalent to the #1 BD cam) completely fail on me. The failure was catastrophic: the lobes completely separated from the stem. I realize that cams can fail when placed poorly, but this cam was set very carefully and properly in a clean, hand-sized crack. What's more, the previous day I encountered a climber who had a small blue Alien break when he fell on it while leading. To be sure, my stories are purely anecdotal, but I seem to keep finding climbers who have their own Alien "horror" stories. Am I the only one who thinks this is an issue? While I'm not out to slam the manufacturers at CCH, I'd like to hear if anyone else has their own examples of cam failure/problems. Here's to hoping that I'm crazy and have just been very unlucky, ANDY PATTERSON



You need to spend more time on the internet and less time climbing.

By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Aug 28, 2008

Russ Walling wrote:
You need to spend more time on the internet and less time climbing.

:) Clever, Russ...and funny.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2008
Half Dome

my aliens are over 10 years old and none have even failed. so i continue to use my purple alien and some other odd colored large ones. I love the look on peoples faces when you pull out the HUGE alien. Most have no idea anything other than black, blue, green, yellow, red exist. I have a grey, purple and orange also. wish they had a #6 camalot equivalent...now that would be something.

By lucaskrajnik
From Anchorage
Aug 28, 2008
My sweet camp pancake!

Malcolm Daly wrote:
Hey Andy, You didn't mention if you got hurt or not. Hope not.... Post up some pics of the broken Alien. I'd love to see the failure mode. Mal



ah ha! .. he is one of the alien manufacture-er-s. huh!? why you asken? ..

jk, but yea, lets see some pics

By Kay
From Durango, CO
Aug 29, 2008
Me leading railroad tracks at the creek.

lucaskrajnik wrote:
ah ha! .. he is one of the alien manufacture-er-s. huh!? why you asken? .. jk, but yea, lets see some pics



You obviously have no idea who Malcolm Daly is.

By Josh Brown
Aug 29, 2008

lucaskrajnik wrote:
ah ha! .. he is one of the alien manufacture-er-s. huh!? why you asken? .. jk, but yea, lets see some pics



Yes, this is a hilarious post, Malcom is the man behind Trango Lucaskrajnik. You need to get out more, on second thought, don't go out more and sit at the computer reading RC.com and you would have known this.

By Josh Audrey
From LAS VEGAS
Aug 29, 2008
chillin after a climb

There is only one way to save yourself from Aliens! Let me have them and I will hide them on my gearsling. Please only send black through red, I will pay S&H.
josh

By Aric Datesman
Sep 16, 2008

Jed Pointer wrote:
The failure mode on post dimple recall Aliens is also very disturbing - ie, what appears to me as overheating the fine wire they use (ie, high strand count cable overcooked in brazing process perhaps to compensate for the undercooking of prior failures).


For kicks and giggles a while back I threw a Red Alien onto the pull tester and pulled it to failure (I'm the guy over at RC mentioned in asmith's post above). It failed a bit below rated strength (11.3kN, rated for 12) by way of the cable separating from the head. There's a thread over on RC with all the specifics (video of the test, a datalog of the forces, more pics), but here's a closeup of the break:



Someone else on RC said they worked with a metalurgist who was willing to take a look at it, so off it went. He said the same thing as Jed- embrittlement of the cable wires due to overheating, evidenced by the distance the braze wicked up the wires.

Personally I don't understand why CCH doesn't switch to a swaged head and avoid the problem altogether. Or barring that switch from the brazing torch to some sort of induction heating fixture to better control the temperatures. But they seem rather set with their process and unlikely to change it. Oh well.

-a.

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Sep 16, 2008
!

Aric-- let me be the first to welcome you to Mountain Project. Your posts have been welcome data points in a sea of speculation...

By Aric Datesman
Sep 16, 2008

Thanks Larry. I'd heard that the signal/noise ratio over here was much better, so finally got around to taking a look and stumbled upon this thread. So far I'm liking it here... :-)

By Kateri Ahrendt
From Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2008
Bart relaxing

Aric Datesman wrote:
I'd heard that the signal/noise ratio over here was much better...


That's funny - signal/noise :)


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