What is your favorite approach shoe? What gives the most durability for the buck? The most support in hiking? The best technical shoe?

For some perspective I will be using it to beat Shawn Mitchell's time on Freeway.

I'm loving my Scarpa Zens... At first they felt a little tight in the toe but they didn't bother me at all on the long approach to Spearhead. They edge good on climbs and kick butt on the talus. They are (hopefully getting me up the Complete Exum later this week. They have last years model on the net for around 80 bucks.

five tennies all the way... light, sticky and supportive as long as you aren't carrying too much weight.

I like the Evolv Rex, I have two pairs and think they are the bees knees. I have a pair of 5.10s that aren't as supportive that I don't like as much. The Rex is on sale for $35 (add to cart, the price on the product page is incorrect) so right now they are a pretty good deal. I've done the Spearhead approach in them with a heavy pack and they were good, my knees - not so much.



http://www.evolvesports.com/REXM.htm

Edit: they are great for Flatirons, too.

those evolvs look sweet. but they don't have my size...10.5:( I'll have to look for them at neptunes. the tennies are probably my next choice but will have to look at the scarpas also.

I've been curious about approach shoes, as well. I'm looking for something I can use as a trail runner & easy solo shoe - anyone have any experience with the Sportiva Exum Pro?

Phil, too bad! They are great (and cheap if they have your size). I hope they come out with a new version since it looks like they are discontinuing that one. These two new shoes from Evolv look like the replacements and look like the same sole/last as the Rex, but I haven't tried them out.

http://www.evolvesports.com/EXIES.htm



http://www.evolvesports.com/SERPICO.htm



I had a pair of Montrail CTCs and those were alright but if I fit them tight enough to climb in they hurt my toes. I have wider feet and hiking downhill in them wasn't fun.

I know. I'm bummed... and I'm hesitant to get a 10 since that will most likely be too small.

Phil-
I tried on an Evolve # 10 (my regular street size) of some sweet approach shoe (don't know exact model) at Boulder Sports Recycler, and it was intolerably small. Don't know if it was an abberation or representative, but I intend to try them on at the store before buying even my regular size.

And sheesh. You better beat me...I sit down and change from tennis shoes to climbing shoes at the base!

Old La Sportiva Boulder, all the way. Less comfy than most on approach, but they climb like a dream (especially on cracks and slabs). Very durable too. I am still dreaming of the day that La Sportiva brings them back. Until then, I will continue to resole the ones I have.

Five Ten Camp Four.

Hey if someone wants a pair of men's 10.5 Evolv Exies I have a pair that have been worn lightly (3 short approaches to climbs) Practically brand new... They just don't fit my feet. $40.00 plus shipping email me if interested.
Dallen

Another vote for the 5.10 camp four. Supportive enough to make me forget I ever had tendinitis in my knees, durable enough for trips up the cap'n, and as good as anything on <5.6. Not the cheapest shoes out there, but they'll last (unless your partner drops them while lowering out the bag across the hollow flake pendulum!) and they feel great running in and out of the mountains. Rigid enough sole for standing in aiders, but enough give for hiking those slabs. Surely the stickiest approach shoe rubber out there as well.

Five Tens are great if they fit you. I know a lot of people who use the Camp 4's and Exum's and love them. But my skinny feet won't work with them. I personally love my Montrail CTC Mid XCR's. They are super supportive, waterproof but not too hot, and climb better than any other beefy approach shoe I've tried. For hot days and shorter hikes I use Scarpa Expresso's, which climb almost as well as a rock shoe.

hands down the guide tennie. you can even climb some routes in them...

Love my Sportiva Cirque Pro's!!! You can't beat the Mythos lace system!

check out acopa scramblers. they are more comfortable than my trail running shoes, but look and perform like a climbing shoe. i can't get enough acopa!!!

The Cirque Pros are great for a lot of reasons but not for the rubber. If the temp. drops below 40 degrees walking on a piece of granite is like walking on ice. Forget snow. That said I had Komito resole mine with some good rubber and they are now the best pair of approach shoes I ever had. Well the Nike Lava Dome was almost as good!