By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 3, 2009
| They are no available yet. Should be this year. Great wall freeing shoe. Offwidths and cracks a plus. Ankle protection but not super rigid like the old mega's were.
Similar last to the Katana's. | 
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By coop
From Golden, CO
Apr 4, 2009
| Katanas fit me very well but I need to save up the $$ for those pricey ones |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 4, 2009
| coop wrote: Katanas fit me very well but I need to save up the $$ for those pricey ones
Im sure they will be worth it. |
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By Peter L K
From Cincinnati, OH
Apr 5, 2009
| Shoe prices are getting out of hand. I switched from 5.10 and La Sportiva to Evolv because I refuse to pay over $125 for a pair of shoes. |
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By Josh Audrey
From LAS VEGAS
Apr 6, 2009
| Acopa JB- these shoes fuckin rule!
josh |
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By Brian Abram
From Colatown in South Cackalacky
Apr 6, 2009
| Telemark-Pyrenees.com has them listed as available and cheaper, even with international shipping and currency conversions. They are supposedly built on a flatter Miura last. |
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By Boissal
From UT
Apr 6, 2009
| SAL wrote: Im sure they will be worth it.
Worth it?? $170?? You've got to be kidding... A bunch of cheapo leather, a few feet of thread and rubber that's produced for a few cents a pound? Even if they were hand-made by the J man himself a price tag like that can't be justified.
I can get ski boots with the same "Italian quality" if I pitch in a few more $. La Sportiva is losing it... |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| Boissal wrote: Worth it?? $170?? You've got to be kidding... A bunch of cheapo leather, a few feet of thread and rubber that's produced for a few cents a pound? Even if they were hand-made by the J man himself a price tag like that can't be justified. I can get ski boots with the same "Italian quality" if I pitch in a few more $. La Sportiva is losing it...
For one. The "J MAN" who the F is that? Whomever had nothing to do with this shoe.
Second. SOunds like your basing your critique off of a picture?? Have you climbed in them? yet alone held them?
Keep skiing!!!
Third.
This shoe was designed for those folks pushing grades and elevation on big walls. Somthign that works for all sorts of climbing encountered on BIG WALL. Meaning you may not have use for this if you still drag your ass up 10+ in the creek. (SKI boots work fine for that...)
Tommy used about 5 or 6 different pairs of shoes to free the nose.
So those of you who have dreams of doing such things would be looking at about 4 pairs at least to climb each type of pitch encountered on the free ascent. So enter the TC PRO. somthign that can shorten the weight of the haul and the pockets on purchase.
I am not saying this shoe is for everyone. I am saying that it is for some people.
Apparantly not for the Boissal man...
But he'd rather climb walls in ski boots which is totally sick and the new fad rad.
Keep on keeping on. |
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By JASON A.
Apr 6, 2009
| SAL wrote: They are no available yet. Should be this year. Great wall freeing shoe. Offwidths and cracks a plus. Ankle protection but not super rigid like the old mega's were. Similar last to the Katana's.
How do you know if they aren't available? |
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By JASON A.
Apr 6, 2009
| SAL wrote: For one. The "J MAN" who the F is that? Whomever had nothing to do with this shoe. Second. SOunds like your basing your critique off of a picture?? Have you climbed in them? yet alone held them? Keep skiing!!! Third. This shoe was designed for those folks pushing grades and elevation on big walls. Somthign that works for all sorts of climbing encountered on BIG WALL. Meaning you may not have use for this if you still drag your ass up 10+ in the creek. (SKI boots work fine for that...) Tommy used about 5 or 6 different pairs of shoes to free the nose. So those of you who have dreams of doing such things would be looking at about 4 pairs at least to climb each type of pitch encountered on the free ascent. So enter the TC PRO. somthign that can shorten the weight of the haul and the pockets on purchase. I am not saying this shoe is for everyone. I am saying that it is for some people. Apparantly not for the Boissal man... But he'd rather climb walls in ski boots which is totally sick and the new fad rad. Keep on keeping on.
Sportiva sold it as T-Man did the entire nose with only one pair of shoes, the Muiras. |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| JASON A. wrote: How do you know if they aren't available?
.
Worn em, Clmbed in em. Saw them designed. |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| JASON A. wrote: Sportiva sold it as T-Man did the entire nose with only one pair of shoes, the Muiras.
Yup.
About 4 different sized pair of Miuras.
When Tommy spoke to me about the fit it was a cross between miura and katana's. Based on down turned and toe box comfort.
OF course there are new materials in the shoe and the new P3 platform. |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| JASON A. wrote: Wow, I didn't know you were so special.
Yup,
Extra extra. LIke the gum. |
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By Friso Schlottau
Apr 6, 2009
| SAL wrote: . Worn em, Clmbed in em. Saw them designed.
SAL, do you work for Sportiva? It sounds like you have a vested interest that a lot of these sell? Just curious. If so, it would be nice to have an unbiased review of these shoes. $170 is a lot of money for a climbing shoe, no way which way you spin it, or who designed it... |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| Friso Schlottau wrote: SAL, do you work for Sportiva? It sounds like you have a vested interest that a lot of these sell? Just curious. If so, it would be nice to have an unbiased review of these shoes. $170 is a lot of money for a climbing shoe, no way which way you spin it, or who designed it...
No I do not work for La sportiva nor am I an athelete of theirs. I just like to answer questions that I know answers to. Apparantly some folks have it all figured out by a picture and retail price. :) So i like to chime in when I can offer real info.
My opinion of these shoes are this.
If you are a standard climber that uses the same pair of shoes for sport, boudlering and trad. this is not for you. This is a specialty shoe. it is designed for the best to continue to do the best. Some people dont get how you can spend so much on a shoe when it is in fact, just a shoe.
The TC pro is more then that in my eyes. It is a tool that avoids having to do things like bring a pair of shoes half sized up for hard 5.14 dime edging or smearing and still be able to climb 5.11 crack comfortably. When I spoke with Tommy about it this is what I heard. Certain pitches required a different shoe last, size and MM rubber. His hopes in designing this sort of shoe was to do away with a lot of that excess and try to merge it into one. So here it is. I hope this actually gives you an idea of the shoe and what the roots of it are.
In my opinion it suites us mortals more then one would think. Even at a high retail cost. It is a softer shoe compared to the JB. It shows that sensativity and comfort. ( I have not climbed in the JB but its design shows me a good bit of the LS mega's that are no longer around)
This TC pro will be sweet for the creek. Offering good ankle protection with still a soft Mythos type toe box getting rid of the bulky feel of the megas. The shoe will edge on a dime and with the new P3 system should hold its shape through multiple resoles. It is lined specifically to allow that sensative feel and edge under foot but still provide protection on the sides and uppers. Anyone who thinks this shoe is just made from crap leather, crap materials over seas is a fool. I have seen and heard of many shoe models that have not hit the market becuase of sportivas devotion to only producing the best shoes for the market. If there are any question marks to start the shoe has no legs.
HOpefully this insight helps at least COOP :) choose in this wide footwear market. I just wanted to offer my info as the shoe has yet to be released or climbed in by the public so a little pre-game info was all i was trying to portray. I will leave the rest up to yall :)
ALthough it may require popping for a pair to try. My second thought to that is wait for the OR show or a demo at a crag/shop/event near you.
Happy CLimbing! |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| Brian Abram wrote: Telemark-Pyrenees.com has them listed as available and cheaper, even with international shipping and currency conversions. They are supposedly built on a flatter Miura last.
Good luck getting them to ship to the USA.
If it were that easy. We would all have them on our feet right now.
And everyone at LS USA would not have a job :)
I cannot wait until they get here though. |
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By Friso Schlottau
Apr 6, 2009
| SAL,
Thanks for clearing that up. I'm curious to try these on... |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| Friso Schlottau wrote: SAL, Thanks for clearing that up. I'm curious to try these on...
From experiance they will be shipping to shops by end of summer. THis will also mean that demo's will start to be held around that time as well to try them before you buy them. Best thing is to check in on their events and see if they will have them there to check out.
The new Speedster they are releasing should be sweet. ANyone who liked the old mantra's or Mantra S would be siked to see this shoe. |
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By gravityneverrests
Apr 6, 2009
| Sal - have you tried/seen/have an opinion on the Gandalfs??? I loved the Cinque Pros but they didn't last very long. Have trouble seeing $215 for an updated, supposedly bombproof, shoe. |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| gravityneverrests wrote: Sal - have you tried/seen/have an opinion on the Gandalfs??? I loved the Cinque Pros but they didn't last very long. Have trouble seeing $215 for an updated, supposedly bombproof, shoe.
ahhh yes. the gandolf. I share your concerns. From the looks and feel of the shoe it is pretty rad. I think it has guides written all over it. It is designed to be able to take the footbed out for a more sensative./aggressive climbing fit. WHich means leave the rock shoes at home. It is super burley in construction. A heavy duty midsole and a tapered one at that to allow that frontal edging and smearing performance. The price is steap for sure. I think it could be worth it depending on your use. I wish I had a chance to really try this one out :) It is pretty much a high performance approach/climbing machine. So if you are comfortable climbing up to 5.10 in your approach shoes. YOu will probably take this shoe with you for anything up to 5.11. The fit on this with out a sock was superb. comfy. soft but still felt like i could climb 5.5 slabs to 5.10 splitters. The only ? i see is the actual wear on the shoe given the amount of use and abuse it is supposed to give you as the user. For that amount of money it should hold up. And yes. The shoe can be resoled just like the old boulders with dot rubber like the Cirque's.
Thats bout all i got on this one.
Happy climbing! |
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By Boissal
From UT
Apr 6, 2009
| SAL wrote: For one. The "J MAN" who the F is that? Whomever had nothing to do with this shoe. Second. SOunds like your basing your critique off of a picture?? Have you climbed in them? yet alone held them? Keep skiing!!! Third. This shoe was designed for those folks pushing grades and elevation on big walls. Somthign that works for all sorts of climbing encountered on BIG WALL. Meaning you may not have use for this if you still drag your ass up 10+ in the creek. (SKI boots work fine for that...) Tommy used about 5 or 6 different pairs of shoes to free the nose. So those of you who have dreams of doing such things would be looking at about 4 pairs at least to climb each type of pitch encountered on the free ascent. So enter the TC PRO. somthign that can shorten the weight of the haul and the pockets on purchase. I am not saying this shoe is for everyone. I am saying that it is for some people. Apparantly not for the Boissal man... But he'd rather climb walls in ski boots which is totally sick and the new fad rad. Keep on keeping on.
Re-read my post, breathe deep, think, then write.
I am not reviewing the shoe based on a picture. I am convinced it will climb great. I'm sure Tommy will love it. I know it's not for me.
References to cheap leather, thread and rubber were meant to illustrate one point: extremely pricey materials are not used to make climbing shoes.
J man is the Jesus.
All I'm saying is LaSportiva has always made really good stuff that's very pricey. They probably think it's the price to pay for their knowledge and experience in shoe-making. In my opinion it's overpriced. I'm pretty sure other climbers would agree.
That, SAL, is all I said. Why you felt the need to mount your high horse and gallop to the shoe's defense is beyond me. It's amusing to see how worked up you got when I voiced an opinion regarding how much $$ should go in a pair of shoes. Name dropping all over the thread and trying to discard my opinion because I'm not a strong climber is pathetic.
You obviously have a lot of information on the shoe. You could have spent 3 minutes explaining why you thought the price tag is justified. Instead you wrote something that would be more appropriate as a myspace blurb, spelling and all. I know this is the intardweb but even by these standards it was a painful read. |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| Boissal wrote: Re-read my post, breathe deep, think, then write. I am not reviewing the shoe based on a picture. I am convinced it will climb great. I'm sure Tommy will love it. I know it's not for me. References to cheap leather, thread and rubber were meant to illustrate one point: extremely pricey materials are not used to make climbing shoes. J man is the Jesus. All I'm saying is LaSportiva has always made really good stuff that's very pricey. They probably think it's the price to pay for their knowledge and experience in shoe-making. In my opinion it's overpriced. I'm pretty sure other climbers would agree. That, SAL, is all I said. Why you felt the need to mount your high horse and gallop to the shoe's defense is beyond me. It's amusing to see how worked up you got when I voiced an opinion regarding how much $$ should go in a pair of shoes. Name dropping all over the thread and trying to discard my opinion because I'm not a strong climber is pathetic. You obviously have a lot of information on the shoe. You could have spent 3 minutes explaining why you thought the price tag is justified. Instead you wrote something that would be more appropriate as a myspace blurb, spelling and all. I know this is the intardweb but even by these standards it was a painful read.
I think i did a fine job explaining to those who asked. I gave info when requested. I am not writing a review on a shoe either. I think you jumped to a conclusion on the shoe just as I jumped to one on your post.not attacking you. But youcant compare a ski boot and its cost to a rock shoe. espcially with a company alwasy trying to produce the latest and greatest. Its obvious most climbers dont need more then just the same pair of shoes until they cant climb :) So i inserted more details for those who actually cared. Read on and post on. The shoe rocks.
Booy a! |
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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Apr 6, 2009
| Talk to anyone who resoles La Sportiva shoes and they will pretty much say the same thing. The quality of the build is poor.
I stopped buying this brand years ago after having so many delamination issues. Also, since I have to buy two pair of shoes as I have one 9 and 9.5 foot, its sucks double time. Other manufacturers will sell you split sized shoes.
Hopefully, the TC Pro shoes will be made to a higher standard. They look interesting. |
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Apr 6, 2009
| John McNamee wrote: Talk to anyone who resoles La Sportiva shoes and they will pretty much say the same thing. The quality of the build is poor. I stopped buying this brand years ago after having so many delamination issues. Also, since I have to buy two pair of shoes as I have one 9 and 9.5 foot, its sucks double time. Other manufacturers will sell you split sized shoes. Hopefully, the TC Pro shoes will be made to a higher standard. They look interesting.
Yo JOhn,
I will say that the factory glue job sometimes fails to meet the standards of the first few months. I also found with those delams is that I am usually climbing in the hot summer or road tripping to where my shoes in heat is unavoidable. So sometimes i chalk it up to user error. I will say though that once i have a pair resoled they seem to last longer then the original soles. Either way. the shoes fit my foot well and I like the things the company does. OTher then overcharge for shoes :)
Ciao. |
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By Boissal
From UT
Apr 6, 2009
| SAL wrote: I think i did a fine job explaining to those who asked. I gave info when requested. I am not writing a review on a shoe either. I think you jumped to a conclusion on the shoe just as I jumped to one on your post. So i inserted more details for those who actually cared. Read on and post on. The shoe rocks. Booy a!
Fine job? You gave some valuable info later in the thread for sure. Why be so defensive about it though? It's not like I was ripping on your ugly sister and you had to stand up for her...
I took one look at the website and it convinced me that the shoe will be great. I climb on LaSportivas, I like them, they work for me, but I need to get the shoes resoled a bunch of times to offset their cost. I just gagged when I saw $170. It's going to take a lot of resoles to bring it to what I consider a reasonable price range, and by that time they'll be too beat to climb on overall. I'd be pissed if I had to climb less cause I can't afford shoes, and at $170 a pot it's pretty close. As you correctly pointed out these things would be overkill for me anyway, so no worries. Yet.
SAL, thanks for the input, post a review if you end up getting the shoes. |
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