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Another cordelette idea

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By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Oct 17, 2007
naughty bull

Yes he (Long & company) does, but also and most important is not falling on the anchor while leading. He dedicates much more material on how to prevent this from occurring as well as Luebben in his book.

The cord is still a viable option to make a redundant anchor.
By Chris M.
Oct 17, 2007

Thanks! This topic is one I always seem to get into with buds at the crags. Is this in his advanced anchors book or a new edition of the original?
By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Oct 17, 2007
naughty bull

Chris, both works by Long & Luebben take the scientific approach to anchors as well as practical applications. These new editions are the first to do so when considering natural features for protection and how to rig them for a redundant anchor.
By Chris M.
Oct 17, 2007

I have read Anchors and then More Anchors, but haven't gotten around to the new editions. Just checked them at Amazon. Do they adderss dynamicity of materials and whatnot?
By E. Jolley
Oct 17, 2007

John McNamee wrote:
Cordelette's are so gay!


Ha! When Jim D. said that, I believe he actually meant that it was only when you used a cordalette while wearing manpris or lycra.
By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Oct 17, 2007
naughty bull

Chris, I think they address more, they analyze situations as well as materials and take practical approaches to the decisions that a given climber will make.
By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2007
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, after climbing Spitagoras, a 12-pitch 10a route.<br /><br />Photo by <a href='/u/bruce_hildenbrand/11057'>Bruce Hildenbrand</a>

Mark Nelson wrote:
Yes he (Long & company) does, but also and most important is not falling on the anchor while leading. He dedicates much more material on how to prevent this from occurring as well as Luebben in his book. The cord is still a viable option to make a redundant anchor.

Here's something I posted in the SRENE belay anchors... thread:

There's an interesting Supertopo thread on belay anchors.

Here are some comments from John Long, aka Largo:

"Probably the two most important things about the entire safety chain are A), do anything possible to safeguard against falling straight onto the belay anchors, and B), develop the skill to know, and to know for sure, what constitutes a bomber placement or primary anchor (single anchor point).

So long as you get good enough pro/primary anchors and never fall directly onto the belay anchor, you're almost certainly going to be fine. But climbing will never be without some risks. The ideal is to limit the risks. The pipe dream is to eliminate all risk, which turns the science and art of building anchors into a hellish, long-winded saga accomplishing nothing whatsoever."

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