I asked a while back about route recommendations for using a 9.1mm 100 meter rope I have. I got a lot of great responses.

I also wanted to see if there were any opinions on using this as an alpine rope? You would essentially have one rope and get 50m raps out of it. No worry about running out of rope on a pitch that is for sure. Hell I'm lucky to make it to the end of my 70m rope with the amount of gear I put in.

Obviously there are some rap stations nowadays that are 60m, but if you knew going in a 50m would suffice.

Besides some mega Indian Creek TR's this seems like a good use for this rope. Or I split it into two 50m sport ropes...kind of a problem as a lot of routes now require a 60m to lower (or 70m).

I've been using a 9.4 and I would be comfortable with a 9.1

Alpine eh? If it has more ice than rock and the sharp edge potential is low, climb on a 8.4mm.

no ice for me. only rock.

I climbed 10 routes on the Diamond one year with a 100m 8mm Beal. It was bicolor so the raps were a breeze, and I got it for $200 so I felt it a worthwhile experiment. I should note that I was caching gear at the time, and would not have carried that beast in there 10 times in a single summer.

I stopped using that system because it really is heavier to climb hard routes with double or half ropes. You have two ropes giving you drag and two ropes to pull up through the pro. It feels(climbs) much heavier than say a 9.4 lead and a 8mm tag due to the rope drag, especially on continuous climbs like most up there are.

The biggest problem is that someone has to carry it, and if you are bringing that big of a rack (so each partner has equal weight) you are going waaaaay to heavy IMO.

As a funny side story, I never had that rope get caught tell right after I cut it in half. The next climb it got stuck fast twice on the raps. I gave it away soon after.

I use a 9.4 Bluewater Dominator for alpine stuff. The water treatment is very durable and the rope is great.

I'd advise against the 8.4 or anything thinner than a 8.9 due to the stretch..........

70meters is the best length ........... Not for packing into your rucksack but for everything else.

I already have the rope so buying it isn't the issue (I got if for free). My theory was that it would lighter then my 70m 9.7 combined with my 60m 8mm trail line. Plus stacking the rope would be relatively straightforward without two ropes to deal with. Also not passing back and forth of the trail line if you are swapping pitches. AND no dealing with tying the ropes together or getting a knot stuck on the raps. It isn't bicolor, but does have a pattern change to identify the middle. Rope drag doesn't seem to be an issue, because it is the exact same as leading on any single rope. The excess weight sits with the belayer until you haul it up...much better then a trail rope really since typically I have the leader carry the trail line in case it gets stuck the second can free it (and so the leader can stack it as the second climbs).

I was going to be using it as a single lead rope. However, then you would be able to do 50m raps with it. I believe 50m works for the Diamond raps, but I'm not 100% positive on that...since I've only done them with 60's.

It isn't something I'd go out and buy really, but it does seem to make sense. The biggest drawbacks seem to be lack of durability and if you encounter 60m raps.

I think paul is planning on just climbing on the single strand but making huge pitches out of it rather than doubling up the rope and clipping both.

I agree that 2 ropes through pro in a PITA.

The problem I see with huge pitches on a single rope is that the amount of protection you(I?) would want for any route on the diamond would make the rope drag heinous by the end of even a 70m.

Cheers

I hear you on the rope drag with doubles, BUT

I'm planning on using the 9.1 as a SINGLE lead rope. It is certainly rated for lead climbing as a single. Not even really thinking of doing uber pitches more than normal, though you obviously could. I did D7 last year in two pitches to Crossover ledge and those pitches were plenty long for me....can't imagine actually going 100m in a single pitch.

This was just an idea of how to use this free rope I obtained effectively. However, the more I think about it...the more it really makes sense for an alpine system, when compared to any combination of double ropes (60 or 70m - twins, doubles, or lead/trail line).

Again besides having "only" 50 meter raps and a lack of durability I can't think of many disadvantages. Maybe the thinness going over edges would also be an issue. However, lots of people are using 9.4-9.7 in the alpine environment and is it really that different?

Again the positives:

Easy rope management
No passing a trail line back and forth
No knots on the rappel
Can run pitches as long as you want without worry
If you do get a serious knick you have plenty of lead rope still to work with.

I'd like to weight my 9.7mm lead/8mm static trail combination to see what was lighter.


Thanks for the heads up on the Diamond raps...I suspected 50's would work, but never checked while up there since I've always climbed on 60's in CO.

I climbed a 100m pitch up there once as a big storm was blowing in. Not as much fun as it sounds. I didn't think you would try to use it as a single rope....that is just...well.....silly. The Diamond goes in 3 pitches to Table with some simu-climbing and a 70m rope. 4 pitches with a 60m rope easily. You are basically going to bring up 40 extra meters of 9.1mm rope just to keep from having a knot? You cannot use the end to tag up gear(unless your partner ties in short), and if you climb a 100 foot pitch you get to haul 200+ feet of rope to put your partner on belay.

I would love to use that rope in Rifle though.......Lowering all the way to the ground after climbing the 8th day would be SWEET!