Alas, my old REI pack finally kicked the bucket. A few months ago I went out on a limb and purchased the Arc’Teryx Miura 50 online and to my dismay found it to be lacking in many ways. Ultimately it comes down to the simple fact that even at a supposed 55 liters it’s too small!

I need a pack that can be used for local cragging as well as trips to the Creek. My typical pack inventory is as follows:

60m rope, rack (doubles of most sizes), draws/slings, helmet, harness, shoes, jacket/clothes (weather depending), 2-4 liters water and some vittles. When I’m climbing with my family, add to that 2 pairs of kids’ shoes, 2 harnesses, 2 helmets, more food, more water, more clothes, and even an extra rope that I typically stow on the outside.

I’m not going to make the same mistake and buy another pack without first trying it on, but I could use some input for where to start. I’m looking at the Osprey Variant 52 but am unsure. Does anybody have other suggestions?

I own the Osprey Variant 52, and have used it for pretty much all the things you have suggested. I heartily endorse it, I don't think you can go wrong with that choice.

I'm wearing it in my personal picture to the left, you can see the red straps across my belay parka. It served me well on a various alpine ascents in RMNP earlier this year.

Properly loaded I think it will hold all you suggest. It easily held gear for a alpine overnight.

Sooooooo, what are going to be doing with that useless old Miura...?

Cilogear. It does everything.

I really like the Mountain Hardwear south col pack. It is super light weight, has great straps for adding tents and pads on the outside but can pack down smaller for cragging. I use it on high altitude 6 day trips in Chile, trips to the creek, and local cragging. It is even on sale at REI now for $200 which is a hell of a deal.

I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but while we're on the subject; What size of pack is recommended for winter alpine ascents, including ice gear and everything. I thought that the recommended pack size for Rainier was like 5500 or 6500 in^3. I can't remember where that came from, but it has me wondering. I need a new pack and I want something that will make my wildest dreams come true...

Check out some of the Black Diamond packs, and I've heard
that cold cold world? makes some good ones.

I was just going to tell you to get a Vortex pack but after some research online it looks like they aren't even making them anymore. I own two and have loved them. I guess even a really good product doesn't do well without proper marketing.

The BD Quantum 55 eats gear like nobody's business... I tried on Osprey, Arc Teryx, Gregory, and REI packs before deciding on the BD pack. I recommend it. C

I've had a Cold Cold World Chaos (4300 in^3 ~ 70L) for a couple years. I love it. It can hold a cart-load of gear (especially if you use the extension sleeve), but it compresses down nicely when you have less stuff too. I typically use it for multi-day ski mountaineering trips, with all my winter camping stuff, skis, skins, crampons, ice axe, etc. It would probably be a little overkill for day trips climbing on rock, but then again it is pretty light for it's size (3.25#), and it sounds like you carry a lot of stuff . . .

The Chernobyl is about 50L (plus extension sleeve), that may be right up your alley.

Cilogear packs are definitely worth looking at.

The 40L and 60L would fit your needs, I bet you can get everything you are interested in into the 40L, but the 60L would definitely work because you can compress it down pretty well.

PM me if you want some more info on the packs, trying one on if you'll be in the Denver area, etc...

Ditto on the cilogear. i owned a chernobyl for years, and they are awesome packs and bombproof. but NOTHING on the market is as good as cilogear. they are the ultimate do everything pack. i used my 60l to hike up to chasm view on long's with all my bivy stuff and a huge rack, then stripped and compressed it and did the diamond carrying it as a small seconding pack. plus you aren't dealing with "a company" just graham. and he is awesome. his customer service is absolutely 2nd to none. i just ordered my 3rd cilogear pack (i'll have a 20l, 30l & 60l.
just buy the cilo, you won't regret it.

Tyler,
Come over to my house and you can try on just about every Cilo Gear pack- I have a 30 40 40b and 60. I am missing the 45 but who knows soon enough I might have one of those too. I also have an Osprey variant 52 you can look at. Yes I am a pack hoar... I have been using a Granite Gear Precipice for 10+ years for rock climbing the thing will not die. It is really comfortable as well. As for alpine if you pack well you can get away with a much smaller pack.

Yeah, just to make sure my offer is open to everyone:

If you are on the front range and want to check out a Cilogear (I have a 30, 45, 60, and an older 40) pack, let me know and we'll hook up.

What about the Mountain Hardwear Direttissima Pack? It seems to have about the same size and features as the Osprey Variant. It is also on sale for $150 at REI right now. Does anyone out there have experience with it?

So my interest is piqued with cilogear...it's unfortunate that I can't try one on before purchasing!

Coz,

I believe its a combination of satisfaction with their product and loyalty to the company/owner. Graham and the employees have always been easy to communicate with, and hand make the products in Portland, OR.

I have one of their older schoolbag packs, I use it everyday for school and occasional alpine trip for the last 2-3 years. Absoluetly no signs of wear despite the daily use and abuse. V4 45L will be my next pack.

Hopefully Doug doesn't mind, stole this from his and John Frieh's recent trip report to Alaska:

Personally I am an advocate for the Black Diamond Quantum Pack. They make this in a 45L and a 55L. The 45L should be plenty spacious enough to accomodate all of your rock climbing/cragging needs as well as non-winter overnights or single day ice climbing pursuits.

The 55L is more suitable for winter overnights or expedition style ascents, e.g. Ranier. Both of these models feature removable top-lids and a removable waist belt so its strips down to a "climbing" friendly size.

The BD Quantum packs are nice, but I have three friends who have destroyed theirs in trips overseas to greater ranges. The failure point always seems to be the zipper on the side, so buyer beware on that one. A few other friends' Quantum packs seem to be lasting through the abuse, so maybe it was just a bad zipper batch?

The photo above was taken by John Frieh of me climbing, but I'm pretty sure he's cool with linking it since he put it in on the web.

I've got the Gregory Alpinisto(50-55 liters) and it's the greatest pack I've ever had. Fits full rack and rope, shoes, helmet, shell, etc very well, with room to spare. It's fits like a dream and even with all that stuff feels like there's barely anything on my back. With the amount of gear you're looking at though it would be close, you may even need a 60 liter.