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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jun 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Does anyone know if houston and weissner ever became friendly? On a side note/fact: houston was able to return to k2 in 1953 and was a part of the "miracle belay", so at least he was able to use weissners and others beta then for a "fair" shot at the summit.

Houston was a HUGE pioneer in high altitude medicine/understanding if I remember correctly. He was an ivy league doctor who had a fascination with the effects of high altitude on the human body.

Am i correct in stating this? Anyone?


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jun 14, 2013
Day Lily.

I see your post greg and I want to see if someone else can get more...


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By drock3
Jun 14, 2013

The Stoned Master wrote:
What is the speed record, car to car, to climb Wallface Mountain, Adirondacks? What route did Ray Jardine climb in Yosemite with his new camming units that caught everyones attention and threw cams into the mainstream? Hint: it was the hardest route ever free climbed in the valley at the time.


I'm pretty sure it was the Phoenix. The story i've heard is that he graded it like 5.11, then when someone finally repeated it they upgraded it to 13a. I've also heard that what Ray called climbing a route would today probably be called hang dogging a route.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jun 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Which of these summits are climbers asked NOT to fully ascend. That's is they have to stop x feet below the summit proper. Why?

Changabang, cho oyu, latok 1, nanga parbat or kangchenjunga?


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jun 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Drock3: I believe you are correct. That's the story I was also told. I wasn't there though so all I have is info from books, "borrowed knowledge".


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jun 14, 2013

Where was the Yosemite Decimal System developed and first applied?


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jun 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Brian asked: Where was the Yosemite Decimal System developed and first applied?

Good one dude! We all use it daily so it'd be nice to know more about it. I don't know the answer and I'm not going to google.


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By ZackB
From Littleton, CO
Jun 14, 2013

The Stoned Master wrote:
Does anyone know if houston and weissner ever became friendly? On a side note/fact: houston was able to return to k2 in 1953 and was a part of the "miracle belay", so at least he was able to use weissners and others beta then for a "fair" shot at the summit. Houston was a HUGE pioneer in high altitude medicine/understanding if I remember correctly. He was an ivy league doctor who had a fascination with the effects of high altitude on the human body. Am i correct in stating this? Anyone?


Correct. He used several hyperbaric chambers to induce the effects of altitude on people, and would have them do vigorous excercise while in there. It was originally used in the military, mostly, but become a huge deal for acclimatization on bigger peaks.

Interestingly, he also worked on an artifical heart that would pump blood and function like a normal heart. The results never fared well, and several dogs died from the work, but he did have one dog live for several minutes on the artifical heart.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jun 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Brian asked: Where was the Yosemite Decimal System developed and first applied?


Hopefully this won't steal your questions thunder Brian.

Where does the term "redpoint" come from? Who and where? Why?

Onsight?
Pink point?
Hangdogging?
Yo-yoing?


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By Eric Engberg
Jun 14, 2013

The Stoned Master wrote:
Brian asked: Where was the Yosemite Decimal System developed and first applied? Good one dude! We all use it daily so it'd be nice to know more about it. I don't know the answer and I'm not going to google.


Tahquitz is usually the answer. There was probably some "prototyping" done at Stony Point

Who were the Harvard 5?

From what world class climber did a young imexperienced HMC crew scoop the first ascent of Huntington from?


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By Em Cos
From Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2013

Here's one: What is the past tense of "lead"?

As in: "I am going to lead this climb today. I _____ that climb yesterday."


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jun 14, 2013

Yup Tahquitz. It's amazing how soft climbs have gotten compared to testpieces at Tahquitz but that is a whole different discussion.

From Wikipeida:
The system was initially developed as the Sierra Club grading system in the 1930s to classify hikes and climbs in the Sierra Nevada.
The original intention was that the classes would be subdivided decimally, so that a class 4.5 route would be a climb halfway between 4 and 5. Class 5 was subdivided in the 1950s. Initially it was based on ten climbs of Tahquitz Rock in Idyllwild, California, and ranged from the "Trough" at 5.0, a relatively modest technical climb, to the "Open Book" at 5.9, considered at the time the most difficult unaided climb humanly possible. This system was developed by members of the Rock Climbing Section of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club.[4]


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jun 14, 2013

Em Cos wrote:
Here's one: What is the past tense of "lead"? As in: "I am going to lead this climb today. I _____ that climb yesterday."



That is basic English grammer. Nothing to do with climbing. "Led."

grammarpartyblog.com/2011/03/25/%E2%80%9Clead%E2%80%9D-versu>>>


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By Tom-onator
From This Galaxy
Jun 14, 2013
Tom-onator

The Stoned Master wrote:
Reinhold messner free climbed the first known 5.11a in europe. What route and where in europe? What year? Who was his partner? Hint: his partner would die on a 8000m peak years later and messner would catch a lot of shit for it. Truthfully my memory isn't perfectly clear on who his partner was, I "believe" I'm right. If I'm wrong. Oh well. Well get the truth then somehow.


Messner had just climbed the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat with his younger brother Gunter who died during the descent.

Minus 148 Degrees refers to what, where, & whom?


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By Eric Engberg
Jun 14, 2013

Tom-o Erectus wrote:
Messner had just climbed the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat with his younger brother Gunter who died during the decent. Minus 148 Degrees refers to what, where, & whom?


Limit on the wind chill charts at the time of the first winter ascent of Denali. Also the title of the book cronicalling that ascent in ~1967


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Jun 14, 2013

First one day ascent of El Cap was Bridwell, Long, and Westbay.


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Jun 14, 2013

From what world class climber did a young imexperienced HMC crew scoop the first ascent of Huntington from?

Terray?


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Jun 14, 2013

A Canadian manufacturer made a camming unit that was spectacularly useless; its name was similar to that of the first camming units. What was it?


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Jun 14, 2013

The term redpoint is attributed to Kurt Albert. Climbs in the Frankenjura that had not yet been climbed free had small red circles painted at the base of the rock. When a route was climbed free, the circle was filled in - the redpoint.


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By kilonot
Jun 14, 2013

This thread is already pretty difficult to follow as people are responding without posting the question they are responding too. This may be better in just a simple, "Here is a neat fact!" format instead of Q&A.


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By Eric Engberg
Jun 14, 2013

Dana Bartlett wrote:
From what world class climber did a young imexperienced HMC crew scoop the first ascent of Huntington from? Terray?


Yup


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jun 17, 2013
Day Lily.

Dana asked: A Canadian manufacturer made a camming unit that was spectacularly useless; its name was similar to that of the first camming units. What was it?

Wow. I have no clue. I do not know of one Canadian gear company (or I just don't know their from Canada). Good question.

Why did early (early = pre 1900s) mountaineers/climbers in europe avoid glaciers? In fact they were terrified to sleep on them as it was thought negative things would for sure happen. What were they so afraid of? Scientific based fear or a religion/belief based fear?


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By Tom-onator
From This Galaxy
Jun 17, 2013
Tom-onator

The Stoned Master wrote:
Why did early (early = pre 1900s) mountaineers/climbers in europe avoid glaciers? In fact they were terrified to sleep on them as it was thought negative things would for sure happen. What were they so afraid of? Scientific based fear or a religion/belief based fear?


There be DRAGONS!!

Who was the first human to spend the night on the summit of Sagarmatha without O's and lived to tell about it?


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By JaredG
From Tucson, AZ
Jun 17, 2013

"From what world class climber did a young imexperienced HMC crew scoop the first ascent of Huntington from? Terray?"

Eric Engberg wrote:
Yup


I'm pretty sure this is wrong. Terray's party indeed made the first ascent of Huntington. A year later, the Harvard team climbed a substantially harder route on the mountain.

Terray then sent a message asking Alaska veteran Bradford Washburn (who knew members of the Harvard team) whether 4 unknown American college kids could really have climbed such a route. Terray was killed in a somewhat mysterious fall before receiving a response from the Harvard team offering proof of their ascent.

I literally finished "Mountain of My Fear" today.


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Jun 17, 2013

A Canadian manufacturer made a camming unit that was spectacularly useless; its name was similar to that of the first camming units. What was it?

They were called Buddies.


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