Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Climbing the nose in July



View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums


Page 2 of 2.  <Prev  1  2
 
By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Feb 18, 2013

Turd Ferguson! wrote:
Did you read the posts above? I'm not saying it isn't a proud accomplishment. I think it is. I was saying that people don't climb it to spray about it today. It gets climbed because it is a historical line steeped in history and a must-do for any well-rounded American climber. It is a respectable accomplishment, I agree, and if someone really wants to do the Nose I think they should go for it, even in July. And what is more of a respectable accomplishment is highly debatable. I will say that I climbed the Nose as a teenager like 15 years ago with about 2 years of climbing experience at the time. It took me many more years and far more effort before I could climb 5.13.

I did read the posts above. I was just adding that the Nose is not some gym climb. I am not sure that many people climb any climb specifically so they can spray about it. If they do, they are tools. Who the hell climbs a route so s/he can brag about it? You climb a route because you want to climb it! If you decide to brag about it, okay, sure, whatever.

As far as 5.13 vs the Nose goes, I know that climbing 5.13 can be more difficult in different ways. I was more or less making a generalization that some hard sport climbers and boulderers can have a narrow field of experience. Certainly not all do. However, many do. I know a person that can boulder V12 but does not know what a sliding X is. I know another that can onsight V9 but cannot top out on a 5.10c sport route. On the other side, all successful wall climbers are diversely experienced. Good luck finding someone that can top out on El Cap, but does not know what a sliding X is or cant climb 5.10+ sport. ;)

Edit: I guess I do know one wall climber that cannot climb 5.10+ sport. Any guesses anyone? I will give you a hint: he is from Canada.


FLAG
By Nick Zmyewski
From Newark, Delaware
Feb 18, 2013
the frozen topout during a winter ascent

20 kN wrote:
Edit: I guess I do know one wall climber that cannot climb 5.10+ sport. Any guesses anyone? I will give you a hint: he is from Canada.


Maybe if he drank a little less cobra


FLAG
By JohnnyG
Feb 18, 2013

In response to the original question - Yes, I've been up there in July a few times. There will be a few other parties on the wall, but not many.

We took a gallon of water per day per person.

Afternoon showers were a welcome treat.


rico and mash in a summer el cap storm...a welcome respite from the heat
rico and mash in a summer el cap storm...a welcome respite from the heat
Submitted By: JohnnyG on Feb 18, 2013


FLAG
By EB
From Winona
Feb 19, 2013

Sweet, thanks. And yes, after sending i will start my own forum to simply spray how bad ass I am... Send me your email if you want me to notify you when its up. I'll try to spray daily to meet everyone's needs.

Thanks to those with helpful beta.


FLAG
By EB
From Winona
Feb 19, 2013

Sweet, thanks. And yes, after sending i will start my own forum to simply spray how bad ass I am... Send me your email if you want me to notify you when its up. I'll try to spray daily to meet everyone's needs.

Thanks to those with helpful beta.


FLAG
By Nate Brown
From Wilson, Wy
Feb 22, 2013
mug shot

It's been a while since I waded in to this cess. Entertainment.

Dude going to EC: like all things, the Captain in July has strikes and gutters.

Strikes: you will have the bridge, base, cliff and route all to your onesie, and ...you very well might have the adventure you are looking for.

Gutters: you might fry your brains like litte eggs and ...you might epic and have to bail resulting in minor depression about the resources and time you have sunken in to a potentially really good/bad idea.

Reccomendations from July EC ascents I've been dumb enough to bite off: bring a boom box, bring twice as much water as you think you need (THIS IS IMPORTANT. DON'F F&@% THIS UP!!), don't bother hauling extra crap like sleeping bags or porta-ledges. Climb as much of the mother as you can in the dark, and bring a few space blankets to rig for shade shelters.

I hope you get it done!!

Best


FLAG
By dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Feb 22, 2013
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't wait to make it back to WY

EricSchmidt wrote:
Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose....


Woa there captain - he was just asking what it's like in July.

Eric, people will take you more seriously if you're somewhat polite or nice with how you deliver your thoughts. Also, it makes ya feel all good insider (rather than being kind of a dick, which contributes to making you feel.. well, kind of like a dick. I am using the word "dick" with complete objectivity by the way).

Try it out (being nice) for a change. You might find that it enriches your life.


FLAG
By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 22, 2013

You can definitely do the Captain in July. As someone up thread wrote, it gets much cooler even a few pitches up. Other people will be up there as well. It will be hotter than if you did it in, say, June or September but if it comes down to climbing it in July vs. not climbing it, then climb it in July. You'll need extra water but otherwise you'll be fine.


FLAG
By Kirk B.
From Boise, ID
Feb 24, 2013
belay slaving on some route I forgot the name of way right of Bloody Fingers.

Remove the honorific there, Dirtbag. That guy's no Captain. Ensign maybe? Midshipman? Or just a regular douche?
I climbed The Trip AND Mescalito in July & we were sure glad when that Sun went around the corner, but it wasn't a gamebreaker. Bring a bunch of water. You'll need it.


FLAG
By EricSchmidt
Feb 24, 2013

hahaha omg what a bunch of sensitive sallys you guys all are! What happened to climbers? One comment from an annonymous guy online and you all start crying.... Keep it coming.


FLAG
By Kirk L
Feb 24, 2013

Turd Ferguson! wrote:
I think climbing the Nose stopped being spray-worthy about 40 years ago, douche.


haha agreed. It IS hot in the valley at that time but the wall should be at least 15 degrees cooler. People climb the nose all year long. I have seen it. I say go for it!

I say this assuming you have a work schedule that you need to attend to and it won't allow you to be as selective with your Valley seasons.


FLAG
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Feb 25, 2013
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

EricSchmidt wrote:
hahaha omg what a bunch of sensitive sallys you guys all are! What happened to climbers? One comment from an annonymous guy online and you all start crying.... Keep it coming.


There's a difference between crying and setting you straight. I'm pretty sure you received mostly the latter.


FLAG
By doak
From boulder, co
Feb 25, 2013

EB, you should have posted your question to the Supertopo forum. There's more Valley climbers there that know what they're talking about, and they'll usually answer an authentic question without being complete dicks about it.

And yeah, take a lot of water and sunscreen. I like the suggestion of pre-hauling water to Dolt tower. If you change your mind, Half Dome is a great plan B in July.

FWIW, Chris Mac has a personal project to climb El Cap every month this year, so it can be done.


FLAG
By dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Feb 25, 2013
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't wait to make it back to WY

I second DOac's suggestion on Supertopo.

Might as well offer my experience though:

I've tried climbing on el cap in July on 3 occasions.. each time I had to bail because I didn't get high enough off the valley floor get relief from the heat. THe last occation, we bailed off Mescalito and passed out / blacked out in the trees at the base.. almost got heat stroke.

If you disregard my experience and decide to go learn for yourself, if doing it in a single push, start the evening before and arrive at the king swing before the sun comes around the following day. If attempting it in capsule style, bring plenty of electrolyte tablets, a couple hundred pounds of water, and get ready to be one tenacious son of a bitch. Having that said, plenty of people have climbed it in both styles in July.


FLAG
By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 25, 2013

If this is your first trip up the Captain, I think the notion of climbing to Dolt Tower, which is a third of the way up, only to drop off water and rap and climb up again is questionable advice. It isn't a bad suggestion if 1) you didn't have to climb thru the hotter lower part of the wall only to get to the cooler part of the wall and then bail/rap off and then have to climb the hotter, lower part of the wall again. There's no guarantee that other people won't drink it if you don't get up there quickly enough.

2) You'll have to fight again thru the crowds at the base, which can be the toughest part of getting established: people will be fixing, jugging up other people's lines, etc. It can be a real mess.

3) Even with extra water, your bags are still going to be lighter than anyone doing a 5 or 6 day aid route. Those folks manage just fine.


FLAG
By EricSchmidt
Feb 25, 2013

Marc H wrote:
There's a difference between crying and setting you straight. I'm pretty sure you received mostly the latter.


Hahahahahahaha. hahahah. Oh boy, you certainly "set me straight". I will never do that again!


FLAG
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Feb 26, 2013
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

EricSchmidt wrote:
Hahahahahahaha. hahahah. Oh boy, you certainly "set me straight". I will never do that again!


Oh, I'm sure you'll continue to be an ass in the future given your attitude. But I'm also sure that the point was effectively made that you were unnecessarily being a DBag to EB and your assumptions about his motives were most likely way off base.


FLAG
By Ryan Curry
Feb 26, 2013

I think that with adequate planning (i.e. an early start and bringing enough H20) the Nose is reasonable in the summer. Try to keep your bags as light as possible, with bringing enough water, and move fast in the mornings. The higher you go the cooler it will be. Also, consider an umbrella or sun shade of some sort for the belayer. My buddy used one on Watkins in hot weather and said it was a lifesaver.

Ryan


FLAG
By camhead
Feb 26, 2013
This painting was taken from engravings made during the 1859 Macomb Expedition, which attempted to locate the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers   in the present-day Needles District of Canyonlands National Park.  Anyone who has spent time in Indian Creek will recognize the features here. <br /> <br />If you're interested, the survey's official report, as well as more landscape paintings like this one, are available in full on google books. <br /> <br /><a href='http://books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=macomb+expedition&hl=en&sa=X&ei=DvEeT9KcFvC40gHIuukH&ved=0CDkQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=macomb%20expedition&f=false' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&d>>></a>

20 kN wrote:
So while the Nose may not be a huge accomplishment when compared to other El Cap walls, I think it is still a respectable accomplishment; far more than claiming some 5.13 sport send or V10 boulder problem send.


Maybe that statement will have more validity when you can actually claim experience in climbing 5.13 or v10? Oh, and nobody gets "guided" up a 5.13 free climb.


FLAG
By csproul
Feb 26, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

camhead wrote:
Maybe that statement will have more validity when you can actually claim experience in climbing 5.13 or v10? Oh, and nobody gets "guided" up a 5.13 free climb.

And I doubt that anybody that gets "guided" up the Nose actually does any climbing. Rather, they jug the whole route. So if that is how one is guided up the Nose (which is a 5.13 free climb!), then I could certainly have a guide take me up a 5.13 or a V10! It's apples to oranges. I do agree that it would be easier to train a 5.13 climber to get up the nose than it would be to take any climber who has climbed the nose and train them to be a 5.13 climber. But both are proud accomplishments in my book!


FLAG
By Peter Hurtgen
From centennial,CO
Feb 26, 2013
looking down from the top!

Stop posting on mountain project and go climb rather than ripping on a dude that want to go climb!


FLAG

Page 2 of 2.  <Prev  1  2