Climbing the nose in July
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Looking at the only chance to get on the nose this year as the first week of july.. anyone been up there that time of year? |
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the whole valley scene seems to be a bit hot by then,,,,,,try Sept or so..... |
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EB wrote:Looking at the only chance to get on the nose this year as the first week of july.. anyone been up there that time of year?It is very hot on the floor. But once you get a few pitches up, the wind will keep you somewhat cool. Take at least 1.5 gallons per person per day. It is going to thoroughly suck to haul that much water. |
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Haul a bunch of water to Dolt Tower at nighttime and stash there. That's going to be the most brutal block if you do it during the heat of the day. |
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Should not be too crowded then. I climbed Zodiac in August, it was 100+/- on the floor, and hot as fuck on the wall. Wish we would have had more than 1 gallon each per day. |
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Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose.... |
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EricSchmidt wrote:Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose.... Douche |
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Bud Martin wrote: DoucheLoser |
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EricSchmidt wrote:Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose....Well, he makes a fair point. Why suffer on something that is heinously hot and out of season, when there are plenty of great places to go climb big routes that are perfectly in season. Take a trip to the Hulk, or Elephants Perch, or Squamish, or the the Bugaboos, and save the trip up the Nose until sometime when you have some free time in spring or fall. Everything has its season, and something is always in season...why not roll with that? |
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JCM wrote: Well, he makes a fair point. Why suffer on something that is heinously hot and out of season, when there are plenty of great places to go climb big routes that are perfectly in season. Take a trip to the Hulk, or Elephants Perch, or Squamish, or the the Bugaboos, and save the trip up the Nose until sometime when you have some free time in spring or fall. Everything has its season, and something is always in season...why not roll with that?Agreed. |
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Turd Ferguson! wrote: I think climbing the Nose stopped being spray-worthy about 40 years ago, douche.haha you thought wrong. People spray about sending a 40ft sport route or a 5 foot boulder problem, yet you think they wont spray about one of the most classic lines in the world? Thats hilarious... |
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Turd Ferguson! wrote: So what exactly is your point, Eric Schmidt? I think the only thing that you have managed to prove in your posts is that you are a douche.Reading comprehension Turd? Point 1: Why would you suffer on a climb totally out of season when there are plenty of other lines in prime condition? Probably so you can spray... Point 2: Turd you are wrong, people still spray about the nose. Any other questions? |
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Eric, EricSchmidt wrote:...one of the most classic lines in the world[.] Eric Schmidt wrote:Thats hilarious...What's hilarious is that you're assuming that s/he wants to climb it so s/he can spray about it. I'm sure the fact that it's "one of the most classic lines in the world" has absolutely nothing to do about it. |
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Turd Ferguson! wrote: I think climbing the Nose stopped being spray-worthy about 40 years ago, douche.The Nose may be the easiest graded line on El Cap. But it is still a full-on grade VI wall that is 31 pitches long. Most climbers cannot and will not ever be able to climb the Nose. When you consider all the gym rats, boulderers, 5.8 adventure tradsters and sport climbers, it is probable that less than 10% of climbers can top out on the Nose. Possibly less than 5%. So while the Nose may not be a huge accomplishment when compared to other El Cap walls, I think it is still a respectable accomplishment; far more than claiming some 5.13 sport send or V10 boulder problem send. |
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It could be awesome, it could be way too hot, there is really no way to tell until you get there. |
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I claimed a 5.12 send on-line with only 3 years of posting experience. It took me another 6 months to claim the Eiger Nordwand. To this day, I can't tell you which was harder. |
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Turd Ferguson! wrote: With nearly 700 mountainproject posts it would be really hard to argue otherwise.Nice! Since the steroid era, that's a respectable tally. EDIT: Only tools and douchebags post on MP. It's science. |
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IF you can go fast, AND start early, then you'll be fine. |
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Turd Ferguson! wrote: Did you read the posts above? I'm not saying it isn't a proud accomplishment. I think it is. I was saying that people don't climb it to spray about it today. It gets climbed because it is a historical line steeped in history and a must-do for any well-rounded American climber. It is a respectable accomplishment, I agree, and if someone really wants to do the Nose I think they should go for it, even in July. And what is more of a respectable accomplishment is highly debatable. I will say that I climbed the Nose as a teenager like 15 years ago with about 2 years of climbing experience at the time. It took me many more years and far more effort before I could climb 5.13.I did read the posts above. I was just adding that the Nose is not some gym climb. I am not sure that many people climb any climb specifically so they can spray about it. If they do, they are tools. Who the hell climbs a route so s/he can brag about it? You climb a route because you want to climb it! If you decide to brag about it, okay, sure, whatever. As far as 5.13 vs the Nose goes, I know that climbing 5.13 can be more difficult in different ways. I was more or less making a generalization that some hard sport climbers and boulderers can have a narrow field of experience. Certainly not all do. However, many do. I know a person that can boulder V12 but does not know what a sliding X is. I know another that can onsight V9 but cannot top out on a 5.10c sport route. On the other side, all successful wall climbers are diversely experienced. Good luck finding someone that can top out on El Cap, but does not know what a sliding X is or cant climb 5.10+ sport. ;) Edit: I guess I do know one wall climber that cannot climb 5.10+ sport. Any guesses anyone? I will give you a hint: he is from Canada. |
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20 kN wrote:Edit: I guess I do know one wall climber that cannot climb 5.10+ sport. Any guesses anyone? I will give you a hint: he is from Canada.Maybe if he drank a little less cobra |
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In response to the original question - Yes, I've been up there in July a few times. There will be a few other parties on the wall, but not many. |