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Climbing the nose in July

Original Post
EB · · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,207

Looking at the only chance to get on the nose this year as the first week of july.. anyone been up there that time of year?

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

the whole valley scene seems to be a bit hot by then,,,,,,try Sept or so.....

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
EB wrote:Looking at the only chance to get on the nose this year as the first week of july.. anyone been up there that time of year?
It is very hot on the floor. But once you get a few pitches up, the wind will keep you somewhat cool. Take at least 1.5 gallons per person per day. It is going to thoroughly suck to haul that much water.
Mike Soucy · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 111

Haul a bunch of water to Dolt Tower at nighttime and stash there. That's going to be the most brutal block if you do it during the heat of the day.
Then jug your lines to Sickle in the dark and cast off.

Guy Kenny Jr · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 10

Should not be too crowded then. I climbed Zodiac in August, it was 100+/- on the floor, and hot as fuck on the wall. Wish we would have had more than 1 gallon each per day.

Prod.

EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose....

Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380
EricSchmidt wrote:Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose....


Douche
EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
Bud Martin wrote: Douche
Loser
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
EricSchmidt wrote:Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose....
Well, he makes a fair point. Why suffer on something that is heinously hot and out of season, when there are plenty of great places to go climb big routes that are perfectly in season. Take a trip to the Hulk, or Elephants Perch, or Squamish, or the the Bugaboos, and save the trip up the Nose until sometime when you have some free time in spring or fall. Everything has its season, and something is always in season...why not roll with that?
EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
JCM wrote: Well, he makes a fair point. Why suffer on something that is heinously hot and out of season, when there are plenty of great places to go climb big routes that are perfectly in season. Take a trip to the Hulk, or Elephants Perch, or Squamish, or the the Bugaboos, and save the trip up the Nose until sometime when you have some free time in spring or fall. Everything has its season, and something is always in season...why not roll with that?
Agreed.
EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
Turd Ferguson! wrote: I think climbing the Nose stopped being spray-worthy about 40 years ago, douche.
haha you thought wrong. People spray about sending a 40ft sport route or a 5 foot boulder problem, yet you think they wont spray about one of the most classic lines in the world? Thats hilarious...
EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
Turd Ferguson! wrote: So what exactly is your point, Eric Schmidt? I think the only thing that you have managed to prove in your posts is that you are a douche.
Reading comprehension Turd?

Point 1: Why would you suffer on a climb totally out of season when there are plenty of other lines in prime condition? Probably so you can spray...

Point 2: Turd you are wrong, people still spray about the nose.

Any other questions?
Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

Eric,

Maybe s/he's climbing it in July because that's when s/he has free time and it's

EricSchmidt wrote:...one of the most classic lines in the world[.]
Eric Schmidt wrote:Thats hilarious...
What's hilarious is that you're assuming that s/he wants to climb it so s/he can spray about it. I'm sure the fact that it's "one of the most classic lines in the world" has absolutely nothing to do about it.
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Turd Ferguson! wrote: I think climbing the Nose stopped being spray-worthy about 40 years ago, douche.
The Nose may be the easiest graded line on El Cap. But it is still a full-on grade VI wall that is 31 pitches long. Most climbers cannot and will not ever be able to climb the Nose. When you consider all the gym rats, boulderers, 5.8 adventure tradsters and sport climbers, it is probable that less than 10% of climbers can top out on the Nose. Possibly less than 5%.

So while the Nose may not be a huge accomplishment when compared to other El Cap walls, I think it is still a respectable accomplishment; far more than claiming some 5.13 sport send or V10 boulder problem send.
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

It could be awesome, it could be way too hot, there is really no way to tell until you get there.

Good luck, have fun, be safe!

matt davies · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 25

I claimed a 5.12 send on-line with only 3 years of posting experience. It took me another 6 months to claim the Eiger Nordwand. To this day, I can't tell you which was harder.
And, pre-emptively, I'm a douche and a tool.

matt davies · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 25
Turd Ferguson! wrote: With nearly 700 mountainproject posts it would be really hard to argue otherwise.
Nice! Since the steroid era, that's a respectable tally.
EDIT: Only tools and douchebags post on MP. It's science.
Kirk B. · · Boise, ID · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 60

IF you can go fast, AND start early, then you'll be fine.
Beware The Sun. It has Power in July.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Turd Ferguson! wrote: Did you read the posts above? I'm not saying it isn't a proud accomplishment. I think it is. I was saying that people don't climb it to spray about it today. It gets climbed because it is a historical line steeped in history and a must-do for any well-rounded American climber. It is a respectable accomplishment, I agree, and if someone really wants to do the Nose I think they should go for it, even in July. And what is more of a respectable accomplishment is highly debatable. I will say that I climbed the Nose as a teenager like 15 years ago with about 2 years of climbing experience at the time. It took me many more years and far more effort before I could climb 5.13.
I did read the posts above. I was just adding that the Nose is not some gym climb. I am not sure that many people climb any climb specifically so they can spray about it. If they do, they are tools. Who the hell climbs a route so s/he can brag about it? You climb a route because you want to climb it! If you decide to brag about it, okay, sure, whatever.

As far as 5.13 vs the Nose goes, I know that climbing 5.13 can be more difficult in different ways. I was more or less making a generalization that some hard sport climbers and boulderers can have a narrow field of experience. Certainly not all do. However, many do. I know a person that can boulder V12 but does not know what a sliding X is. I know another that can onsight V9 but cannot top out on a 5.10c sport route. On the other side, all successful wall climbers are diversely experienced. Good luck finding someone that can top out on El Cap, but does not know what a sliding X is or cant climb 5.10+ sport. ;)

Edit: I guess I do know one wall climber that cannot climb 5.10+ sport. Any guesses anyone? I will give you a hint: he is from Canada.
Nick Zmyewski · · Newark, DE · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 250
20 kN wrote:Edit: I guess I do know one wall climber that cannot climb 5.10+ sport. Any guesses anyone? I will give you a hint: he is from Canada.
Maybe if he drank a little less cobra
JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

In response to the original question - Yes, I've been up there in July a few times. There will be a few other parties on the wall, but not many.

We took a gallon of water per day per person.

Afternoon showers were a welcome treat.

rico and mash in a summer el cap storm...a welcome respite from the heat

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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