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Climbing near resort towns

Original Post
Sean O'Brien · · Spokane, Washington · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Hey all,

I am starting my research into a climbing trip in February. I am hoping for some beta as to climbing areas (with easy / moderate topropeable routes) near popular resort areas. I am thinking about maybe even doing an all-inclusive type situation (my girlfriend has never been out of Washington state and is really worried about international travel).

Does anyone have any experience in this ?

Is there any beach front climbing with easy access at all?

Thank you all in advance for any leads to be researched!

David A · · Gardnerville, NV · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 405

Throw a dart on a map and find the nearest climbing area to that spot. That should work.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

Cayman Brac seems to fulfill all those requirements, except the GF anxiety. She needs to get a passport asap.

www.climbcaymanbrac.com

mountainproject.com/v/cayma…

KC G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Come on down to Santa Barbara, CA! There's quite a bit of climbing in the area, tons of bouldering as well. Check out these spots

Look for a good Airbnb deal for a really unique way to visit the area.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
John Byrnes wrote:Cayman Brac seems to fulfill all those requirements, except the GF anxiety. She needs to get a passport asap. climbcaymanbrac.com mountainproject.com/v/cayma…
I know you like Cayman Brac -- but I don't think it qualifies for the "easy/moderate toperopable" climbing.

"There are now a total of 80 routes on the island from 5.6 to 5.13, with the bulk being tens, elevens and twelves." (A quick count suggested 13 climbs under 5.10. And they don't look to all be close together. So, not much in the "easy" range. And, no information on whether they can be setup as top-ropes. How is top-of-cliff access for those climbs?
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
David Gibbs wrote: I know you like Cayman Brac -- but I don't think it qualifies for the "easy/moderate toperopable" climbing. "There are now a total of 80 routes on the island from 5.6 to 5.13, with the bulk being tens, elevens and twelves." (A quick count suggested 13 climbs under 5.10. And they don't look to all be close together. So, not much in the "easy" range. And, no information on whether they can be setup as top-ropes. How is top-of-cliff access for those climbs?
Well, you got me there. I guess it depends on what you're used to... I consider 5.10 as the top of the "moderate" range, and there's twenty-one 10s.

What I'm used to regarding top-roping is that the more experienced climber leads the route, and the less experienced climber TR's it. Short answer: someone will need to lead the route. Access from the top isn't practical.
e burgess · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

the mokuleia crag on Oahu's north shore is super cool, and easily TRable. You can climb in the morning and surf all afternoon. there are cool bolted climbs ranging from 5.7 up. you can see swell lines in the ocean the whole time. there is a hostel pretty close at waiamea bay and resorts in waikiki an hour and a half away. there is no guidebook right now and it is still in the US, but there are cheap flights from washington.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
John Byrnes wrote: Well, you got me there. I guess it depends on what you're used to... I consider 5.10 as the top of the "moderate" range, and there's twenty-one 10s. What I'm used to regarding top-roping is that the more experienced climber leads the route, and the less experienced climber TR's it. Short answer: someone will need to lead the route. Access from the top isn't practical.
You're too good of a climber, John.

When people ask for top-ropeable climbing they generally mean climbing they can hang a top-rope on from above without leading it. Otherwise, it really isn't meaningful -- most every climb in the easy-to-moderate grade range (with the rare exceptions of something that traverses a lot) can be top-roped after being lead. Kind of barely within the "top-ropeable" would be somewhere you can lead a really easy climb (say 5.3 to 5.4) to get to a big ledge from which you can then drop a rope on several other climbs. But that still requires bringing along draws which one might not want to do when going to a resort.

And, while I agree that "moderate" can edge up into the 5.10 "easy to moderate" generally wants most of the climbing below 5.10 -- with, maybe, the occasionally 5.10 as a stretch goal rather than mostly 5.10 with the occasional easier climb.
kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

Europe ideas ...

  • Mallorca (and perhaps others of the Belearic islands of Spain). Recently famous for DWS, but there's more and other climbing.
  • Cala Gonone -- on the island of Sardegna (Italy). Climbers often go off season to get great hotel and rental car deals.
  • Cassis, France -- surrounded by famous limestone to the west (Calanque d'En Vau), and interest sandstone and puddingstone to the east. Great for hiking also.
. . (nearby choice could be La Ciotat, but the beaches are small)

  • Finale Ligure (northwest Italy) -- not the nicest sand on the beaches, but some say the best limestone climbing in Europe (or the world?)
  • island of Elba (west coast of Italy)

not sure of the details ...
  • presumably something on the southeast coast of Spain. A popular climbing area for English-speakers is El Chorro.
  • something in western Sicily : not sure if San Vito counts as near a "resort"
  • perhaps something on the coast of Croatia?

If you think of these as resort towns ...

  • Nice, France -- has climbing directly above the city, and lots more nearby.
. . also other "French Riviera / Cote d'Azur" towns like Cannes have lots of climbing within short driving range.

  • Barcelona, Spain
  • island of Kalymnos
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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