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Climbing in Tanzania
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May 10, 2014
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
Tyler,
Yeah I found alot of tour services offering basically the same tour. It seems to all go through the Tanzanian cultural program.
Yeah I would love to see pictures. I will be driving by it in the next few days but it might be at night.
Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
May 16, 2014
me
Bobby, finally found some of my pictures. They aren't much (we were in a hurry) but they offer a different view than the ones already posted. This is Mt. Longido.
Mt. Longido at dusk, from the road.
Mt. Longido at dusk, from the road.


Mt. Longido from the road. Forgive me for the 'sta...
Mt. Longido from the road. Forgive me for the 'stache


Mt. Longido from a distance. Striking feature.
Mt. Longido from a distance. Striking feature.


Mt. Longido
Mt. Longido
Tyler Phillips
Joined Sep 11, 2013
118 points
May 17, 2014
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
Thanks for the pictures Tyler. I actually got to drive by Longido on Tuesday. I tried to take pictures, but nothing turned out. I was surprised that the large impressive face in your pictures was directly facing the road. There is a tremendous amount of rock immediately around the border. I am hoping to make it back up to mount longido in the next month or two and scout some routes. Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
May 20, 2014
Hi Bobby, i'm likely to be in Tanzania for some months later this year, no exactly sure when. I'm keen to get out climbing too. Have you found anywhere interesting with established climbs? I'm also up for new-routing, trad/sport whatever. let me know if you've found any places that sounds promising. I don't have much time to do research. I may also get to Malawi, Zambia & kenya... incase you found anything good there. Cheers, Ben UKBen
From Boulder
Joined Oct 8, 2012
0 points
May 21, 2014
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
Ben, PM sent Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
Jun 23, 2014
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
I made it up to Mount Longido this weekend. It is well worth a stop if you are passing by. It is much less of a tourist trap than Kili and Meru. The view from the top its really good. On a clear day you can see Kili and Meru in the south and into kenya in the north.
View from the top of Longido into kenya
View from the top of Longido into kenya

Rock quality wise, it is very solid granite. It has a lot more texture than the Yosemite granite I am used to. I was not able to get at the main face (which is in all the previous pictures on this thread) this trip. I am afraid that it will be dirty as all the rocks at the summit have lichen on them.
The summit. Notice the Lichen covered granite.
The summit. Notice the Lichen covered granite.

The entire mountain side is covered in large granite boulders, some might be as tall as 60 feet.
Overhanging Granite Boulder
Overhanging Granite Boulder

So there is a lot of potential there. I am hoping to make it up there again soon.
Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
Jun 24, 2014
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
Check out Mbuji rock in Southern Tanzania.

Mbuji rock 1
Mbuji rock 1


Mbuji rock 2
Mbuji rock 2


Mbuji 3
Mbuji 3
Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
Jun 24, 2014
Do you know if Mbuji rock has ever been climbed? It looks like there is no walking path to the summit, so it would have to be a technical climb. Pat M
Joined Jun 3, 2014
929 points
Jun 25, 2014
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
Hey Pat,
I am loving the climbing you are developing and posting over in Angola. Good job. I would love to make it over there one of these days.
I haven't been down to Mbuji so my info is from online research. I found a comment somewhere about a fairly well worn path to the top. I also found a story about a peace corp volunteer who died in a "rock climbing" accident there. What their definition of rock climbing is I am not sure. From the little info i found about the actually event it sounds like he slipped while hiking down.
So to answer your question it looks like there is a non technical route up and I don't know if there are any technical routes in existence.
Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
Jul 6, 2014
me
Bobby, so excited to hear you made it up Longido! That is so cool. I remember driving by and wishing I could go up it. 60 ft tall bolders? Sounds pretty wild! I hope you're able to get up there.

Mbuji looks like a winner.
Tyler Phillips
Joined Sep 11, 2013
118 points
Jul 8, 2014
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
So I made it up to Longido again this weekend but this time I had all my gear and another climber. The results weren't very encouraging. In short I believe that route development is possible, but it would require a lot more effort, time and money than I have.
When you look at the face from a distance it looks clean.
Mount Longido from the West.
Mount Longido from the West.

When you get on the face(We rappelled down from the summit) it is a different story.
On the face of Mount Longido
On the face of Mount Longido

Most of the rock is covered with lichen and there are small shrubs and trees growing in most cracks. While this is not insurmountable it would require a lengthy cleaning process requiring more time and money than I can devote to it. With fees being $40 or more a day it would get expensive pretty quickly.
Nevertheless we did get sort of get in one route.
4 for 40. The picture angle makes it look steeper ...
4 for 40. The picture angle makes it look steeper than it is.

It was about 40 feet of pretty decent 5.7 and and about 60 feet of nasty 4th class through bushes and shrubs. I am calling it 4 for 40 (4 hours packing a rack for 40 feet of climbing)
Approximate location of 4 for 40
Approximate location of 4 for 40

So if someone where to want to really do it right, a trail would have to be broken through some dense brush to the base. After cleaning a trail you could set up camp and then continue "gardening" for several days as you climb up the wall.
Anyway that's my two cents about climbing Longido, I hope it is helpful to someone.
Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
Jul 12, 2014
Hi
I am a climber based in Nairobi but not been to Longido. From Mtn Club of Kenya archives and the East Africa International Mtn Guide there are two routes up Longido:-

The Great Escape VI- (UIAA) 335m FA= A. Wielochowski, R. Corkhill 1984

West Diagonal V+ (UIAA) 600m FA= I.J.Allan, M.Savage 1973

The main W facing cliff is cut by a prominent L to R diagonal fault, The Great Escape follows the most prominent chimney line in centre of the R hand half of this cliff. THe upper section quits the main chimney line and traverses R below huge roofs to find a spectacular escape to the summit ridge. (Taken from EAMGuide)
fish
Joined Jul 12, 2014
0 points
Jul 12, 2014
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
Thanks Fish,
That is good info. Thanks for looking that up and posting it up.
I was looking at the chimney that I think the Great escape takes. I am not a fan of chimneys though. I made a simple topo of where I think the Great Escape is located. Tell me what you think.
Great Escape ?
Great Escape ?
Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
Aug 22, 2014
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
I visited the Usambara mountains last week. Tons of potential there. I posted up some area and pics.
mountainproject.com/v/-west-us...
Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
Aug 30, 2014
Hi,
I've just arrived in Arusha and would like to know if there's any climbing potential in the area. I'm also looking for a climbing partner, anyone out around here?
Thanks for getting back to me.
Florence
Joined Aug 30, 2014
0 points
Jan 8, 2015
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
I recently got a chance to do some more exploration in Northern Tanzania. I had seen some promising looking rock from the high way and went out with my friends to check it out. As you can see in the pictures it is an impressive cliff face that is fairly clean for Tanzania and looks like it has potential. I believe the rock face is around 300 meters tall. Good news is there is a pretty decent road to the base of the escarpment, bad news is there is no trail up to the cliff face just lots and lots of thorns.

Cliff Face on Manyara Escarpment.
Cliff Face on Manyara Escarpment.


Cliff Face on Manyara Escarpment.
Cliff Face on Manyara Escarpment.


Cliff Face on Manyara Escarpment.
Cliff Face on Manyara Escarpment.


Cliff Face on Manyara Escarpment.  Sweet reflectio...
Cliff Face on Manyara Escarpment.
Sweet reflection shot.


This cliff is not to far from the Lake Manyara National Park. Rough Gps Coordinates-3.898788, 35.704802
Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
Jan 15, 2015
me
That looks solid from the pictures, and hopefully cleaner than Longido. Any plans to rappel and check it out? Tyler Phillips
Joined Sep 11, 2013
118 points
Jan 15, 2015
Fisheyed fool 10b foster falls
Hey Tyler, Yeah the wall does look a lot cleaner than Longido. It may have something to do with its orientation. Yeah No solid plans to go back at the moment as I am living about a thousand Km from there at the moment, but hopefully in the next five months before I leave TZ I will get a chance to get back there. Reaching the top of the escarpment at that point would be a major endeavor. Our abortive attempt to reach the base of the face took 3 hrs of fighting our through thick brush and thorns. So we will see. Bobby Hutton
From Gold Country CA
Joined Aug 6, 2013
577 points
Jan 16, 2015
me
Good luck Bobby! Tyler Phillips
Joined Sep 11, 2013
118 points


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