|By Chad_N |
From SEKI, CA
Dec 14, 2010
I'll be in Peru and Bolivia from Jan. to March 2011. Im super psyched and I'd really like to partner up and climb with somebody......anybody. So 1st question, do you want to climb?
2nd question is just if anybody has been down there or lives there and has anything positive to add? I'm open to all sorts of interesting things to do, beta, routes, peaks, hot springs, food, etc.
Im intersted in bagging some easy/moderate peaks around Huaraz and Caraz and doing some trad/sport or bouldering in Quebrada Llaca near Huaraz (end of Jan. and Feb.)
Then around La Paz, Bolivia during end of Feb. and into March looking to do some more peaks and climbing.
I have two guidebooks for the areas
1. Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru (D. Sharman)
2. Bolivia A Climbing Guide (Y. Brain),
I speak some spanish, and have been in those countries before. The first book listed is quite good and mentions some training routes on peaks to go for first. The 2nd book I haven't read too much yet but it seems to be a lot of harder technical routes.
Im going with crampons, 1 long ice axe, gaitors, winter clothing and 3 season tent and bivy gear, harness, ATC, I plan on going for 3500-5000 meter peaks in one or two day pushes, Grade V, (5.6) mixed rock, snow and ice terrain. Up to 45/60 degree snow slopes. I wasn't planning on taking a rope or my trad or sport rack but I have a 9.2 60m rope that could possibly come down.
Should I take my rack? Is there easy/ mod. trad routes in La Brichera?
Anybody ever find a climbing partner in Huaraz, Caraz, Lima or La Paz?
Ive soloed around 50 peaks class 3 to 5.6 (mostly in the Sierra Nevada) but some in Patagonia. None in the Peru/Bolivia Andes. I consider myself a mountaineer, done some winter stuff, but I have no experience with big gnarly mixed terrain above 5000 meters. I also lead trad and sport climb.
Basic to moderate knowledge of glacier travel and avalanche. My biggest concern is altitude sickness and acclimation.
Thanks for replies in advance. Cheers and happy holidays!!!