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climbing Devil's Tower in July- too hot or okay?
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By Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Apr 26, 2014
Me

I'm heading through Wyoming in July and would love to climb in Devil's Tower. Will I roast and be miserable or possible to chase shade and be okay?

Thanks in advance for tips!


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By Jeff McLeod
Apr 26, 2014
Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a

I did a trip to the tower in July last year...it was hot as balls, but some really stellar routes stay shaded all day so you shouldn't have too much trouble finding stuff to do. Don't do El Matador in the afternoon though. Definitely can't recommend that. Felt like I was in an oven in that box stem


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 26, 2014
Andrew Gram

The tower is a big sundial, so chasing shade can be an option if you are fast. The approaches on different faces are distinct and not completely trivial though, so there can be quite a bit of effort involved. If it is really hot, you can always go to the Needles and find shade/altitude there.


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By Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Apr 26, 2014
Living the High Life.

Start early and you will be fine. If going for the Durance try to be climbing by 7. Cool and enjoyable then. Lots of great single pitch stuff goes into the shade in the afternoon.


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By Shralpine
From boulder, co
Apr 27, 2014
one of the 5.10 pitches on pervertical

Just chase the shade you'll be fine. We went in sept and it was hot 85 deg just moved from nw to ne throughout the day. The approaches are pretty damn easy and the routes are amazing!


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By Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Apr 28, 2014
Me

Thanks folks!! We're adding it to our summer trip itinerary!


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By Brent Larsen
From Spearfish, SD
Apr 28, 2014
EBM, 5.11a <br />Sunshine Wall, Spearfish Canyon. <br />South Dakota.

And don't forget to hit up the limestone sport climbing in Spearfish Canyon. It's just an hour away from Devil's Tower and on the way to The Needles.


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By Jason Albino
From San Francisco, CA
Apr 28, 2014
Me

Thanks Brent, it's actually on our list now and I'm really looking forward to it!!!

See my post here for our draft itinerary:
mountainproject.com/v/summer-14-westerncentral-us-road-trip->>>


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By Brent Larsen
From Spearfish, SD
Apr 28, 2014
EBM, 5.11a <br />Sunshine Wall, Spearfish Canyon. <br />South Dakota.

Nice! Shoot me a mountain project alert if you need someone to climb with when you plan to climb in rapid city and spearfish


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By Harrison Teuber
From Black Hills, SD
Apr 28, 2014

Start on the west face of the tower and make your way around to the north face as the sun comes around. Good routes in the 5.9 - 5.10- range...(mccarthy west, tulgey wood, new wave, assembly line, and a lot of the first pitches to the classic 5.11s on the tower are all in the .10- range)
If going for Durrance, start early and move fast to avoid crowds and heat.
Most likely the falcon closures for certain routes will be lifted by the time of your visit, but make sure you check at the kiosk to avoid a hefty fine.

Regarding your itinerary link -
There are plenty of places to chase shade in spear canyon and custer state park to climb world class stone and really great camping.
Devils tower is on the way when heading to Tensleep from Spearfish/Needles area, so unless you want to back track east, you may want to stop at the tower before heading to ten sleep.

Have a good trip


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By Wally
From Denver
Apr 28, 2014

July at the Tower can be tough. Yes, like a sun dial is the Tower. But in July middle of the day the dam sun is pretty much directly over the tower - making all aspects very close to or in the sun. Maybe an approach would be early morning climbs on the north and west side, take a mid day break, and if you still had guns then later afternoon climbs on the northeast side.

Much easier to chase shade at the tower on Memorial day and Labor day weekends, when the sun is lower on the horizon.

The tower is a special place!


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2014
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Get up early and do a few routes then take a break from noon-5, then do a few more routes after the heat breaks and shadows are long again. You'll be fine.


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