Climbing Bolt Types
Climbing Bolts come in 7 major types. See details about each:
Subtopics in Climbing Bolt Types:
Best Use: Remote or alpine environments; temporary placement during first-ascents Rock Type: Hard rock Pros: Easily removed; light, cheap, and easy to replace Cons: Weak; unreliable The bolts originally used in large numbers were compression bolts known as button-heads. ...
Best Use: General route setting and rebolting Rock Type: All rock Pros: Reliable in soft rock compared to other bolt types; long-lasting Cons: Expensive; difficult to set and remove Glue-in bolts have gained recognition as the most durable bolts used in rock climbing tod...
Best Use: Caving and self-rescue Rock Type: Not recommended for climbing purposes Pros: Removable Cons: Inefficient; sleeve can easily crack when inserting the machine bolt A drop-in bolt is a variation on the sleeve bolt that has largely become obsolete in rock climbin...
ClimbTech Legacy bolt has the added benefit of being easily removable for inspection or replacement. Best Use: Top-down route setting or rebolting in a variety of rock densities Rock Type: Soft, medium, hard, or variable density rock ...
The five-piece, such as the Power-bolt (also known as the rawl bolt) and the Hilti HSL, is easy to spot on the rock by its flat hex-head with no visible threads. Originally developed as a construction bolt, they are available in many different sizes and materials. Powers ...
Best Use: Desert sandstone; bolting on lead Rock Type: Desert sandstone Pros: Can place on lead Cons: Loosen as they age; weak in straight out pulls Drilled angles are common bolts in the desert southwest. Generally a 1/2 (i.e. BD #1 or baby angle) is hammered into a ...
Best Use: Bottom up or top down route setting or rebolting Rock Type: Hard rock and sometimes medium rock if an appropriate bolt Pros: Can place with one hand; bolt will tighten itself when loaded Cons: Unsafe in soft and variable density rock; difficult or impossible to ...