Climbers Beware 5.10c X
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Eric Kohl |
| Submitted By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 29, 2003 |
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Passing the scary block on Climbers Beware.
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Auburn Cliffs Open Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays till Sundown! MORE INFO >>>
We are pleased to announce the successful completion of the fundraising campaign to open Auburn Quarry outside of Sacramento, California. The climbing community responded quickly and generously to raise $9,520 to provide critical services and put CRAGS in a position to restore climbing access at Auburn Quarry! A special thanks to all of the individual donors and local businesses, including Planet Granite, Sacramento Pipeworks, and Stoneage Climbing Holds for generously responding to the call for help. Opening day is Friday Sept. 27 and climbing is allowed every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday till Sundown! We ask that you please respect the current hours of operation and hope that the cliff will be open year round in the future. Stay tuned for updates at www.norcalcrags.org.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climb up the large bulge in the middle of Horseshoe Canyon. This route is simple, with the exception of one really balancy move that heads across the bulge. If this route really was meant to be climbed more, there would be a few more bolts on it, and also the rock would be cleaned in a very grand fashion. This route is really really runout, and it is my opinion that a bad fall in the crux will probably cause the rock joined to the second bolt to come loose, cause you and it to come plummeting to the ground from 30 feet up. As a result, this route gets a VERY serious rating.
Protection 4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared withUncomfortably Dumb (5.10c). a couple of medium -small cams makes leading this route a little bitmore comfortable.
| Comments on Climbers Beware |
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By Rough Aug 18, 2012
| More FA info coming soon. I am also asking if the FAist would mind if this route was rebolted / clean to bring it to a condition that is a little more in line with the area. |
By Brennen T From: SLC,Utah/Roseville, california Aug 23, 2012
| i spent a couple hours today cleaning the crux on this route and the crux on the 5.8 next to it, should be a little bit more clean! |
By Salamanizer Administrator From: Vacaville Ca. Sep 21, 2012
| Make that second bolt bomber and leave the route spicy. If permission to retro is given. Go minimalistic on the bolting and only eliminate any ground fall potential, but leave the runnouts. Just my kneejerk opinion. I do agree, the last thing that place needs is someone getting seriously hurt when access is already on the fringes. |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Sep 21, 2012
| I did this route recently and I agree with Salamanizer. This is a fun route, and the only thing that needs to change is for that one bolt (second?) to be moved down and left a foot into solid rock. Or something like that. |
By mattymck From: Rocklin, Ca Oct 19, 2012 rating: 5.10c PG13
| I've done this route a few times over the years, sometimes placing small gear in the flake between bolts one and two sometimes not. It always felt pretty comfortable to me as the climbing in that section is pretty easy, although the route is a little more heads-up protection-wise than other routes in the canyon. The climbing is pretty easy after the roof, so even though there are only two bolts in that 30+' stretch this climb always felt safe to me. I appreciate other climbers willingness to invest some time and money in retrobolting it, but seems nice to have at least a few more sporty routes at every sport crag. Additionally, I always traversed 4' left at the roof and climbed up the break. From the photo it looks like the poster went right a few feet at the same spot. Will have to try it that way also, still felt .10c going the other way as well. |
By mike carville Feb 16, 2013
| This was one of the first routes we did at the Quarry. Although the climbing isn't very hard in the runout section both Josh and I kept thinking that if someone got hurt there (loose rock, bad fall) it could jeopardize access to the whole area. Something to think about at least. |
By Salamanizer Administrator From: Vacaville Ca. Feb 18, 2013
| Then add a bolt, it's your route. There's a place for bold and spicy and Auburn ain't it. |
By mattymck From: Rocklin, Ca Apr 19, 2013 rating: 5.10c PG13
| A very large block has fallen off this route at the left side of the roof and the block/face above the roof now has a very large 8' crack in it that did not exist as of 9 months ago. The whole roof section would appear to be very unstable. Still a fun route, but be cautious and gentle with this route. |
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