Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Bob Horan and John Baldwin, 1996.
Page Views: 2,410 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 15, 2005 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is the first pitch of a multi-pitch route. I did not climb the upper pitches. The first pitch is 10b; the upper pitches are harder (12 A0).

Follow a switchback past the left side of Vampire Rock and continue uphill (25' ?) until you can see bolts on the vegetated, lichen-covered wall and corner system on the right. This is the route.

P1. Climb the face and corners to an overhang. Make airy moves past the overhang and climb the tricky face above. Work right to a short finger crack and continue up to the anchor. (10b)

The rock is a little grungy, but solid, and there are lots of good moves on this pitch.

Protection Suggest change

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.  Some bolts are hard to spot from below (like the one above the roof) so if it looks runout above you, there's probably a bolt you haven't found yet; look left/right and around the corners

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