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 ADVANCED
Reynolds Hill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 
Barf Bucket Traverse T 
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 
Bloodletting T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Climbs of Passion Exit T 
Coffee Grinder T 
Connecticut Yankee T 
Cosmic Debris T 
Fat Man's Demise T 
Finger Grinder T 
Fist Crack, The T 
Glenda's Chimney T 
Howling T 
Hug Jombo T 
Hung Like a Horse T 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 
K.P. T 
Klink T 
Labyrinth T 
Maiden T 
Matron T 
Moor's Crossing T 
Peach Cobbler T 
Penis Dimension T 
Pooh Corner T 
Robert's Rectification T 
Serpentine T 
Sky Line T 
Spatial Relations T 
Time Quake T 
Tombstone Crack T 
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Climb and Punishment 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 7,634
Submitted By: Ben F on Sep 23, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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Finishing the initial overhanging crux section.
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It seems like most climbing areas have a climb with this name. This is the left most crack system in the alcove located in the Reynolds Hill formation. Though my seconds may disagree, there was nothing punishing about this climb.

The start is a bit awkward - place and keep moving, but once you get through it, the rest of the route is pure enjoyment. C and P merges toward the top with Penis Dimension (a nice climb to the right) and shares the same anchors. Call it about 75 or 80 feet.


Protection 

Standard rack. You don't need anything smaller or larger than a #1.5 and #4 Friend, respectively. Bring doubles in the hand-sized range and don't forget your stoppers. There is a fixed anchor at the top from which you can rappel with one rope.



Photos of Climb and Punishment Slideshow Add Photo
Silent Bob following Climb and Punishment 5.9, at Vedauwoo. <br /> <br />Photo: Andrew Gram
Silent Bob following Climb and Punishment 5.9, at ...
Tony Bubb leads "Climb and Punishment (5.9)" at Reynolds Hill in Vedauvoo. Photo By Joseffa Meir, ~Y2K
Tony Bubb leads "Climb and Punishment (5.9)" at Re...
Starting to cruise right after the crux.
Starting to cruise right after the crux.
Comments on Climb and Punishment Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 11, 2013
By Joe Collins
Aug 26, 2002

Super fun, but very sustained. My partner had A LOT more trouble with this one than the 10a part of Friday the 13th.

By nolteboy
Jun 3, 2005

Classic. It's easy to look at this and say, "ah, #2's!", but don't forget a couple #3 Camalot-sized pieces for the upper half of the pitch.

By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2006

Perfect, bomber hand jams can be had the whole way up if you look for them. This pitch is more difficult than it looks.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 25, 2006

Sustained. Hexes are useful, since all of the jams are so slotter. Penis Dimension is easily toproped after leading this.

By Brian Story
Dec 10, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a great route. Harder than it looks. Sinker jams the whole way. Gear list is perfect. Watch the rope when lowering off - a 60m makes it with little room to spare.

By Johnny D
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 6, 2007

Super classic.

With the exception of the first 10 feet which are a bit awkward, sinker jams the whole way.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jul 30, 2007

I am glad I didn't listen to Ben's advice on the gear. The suggestion of a double set of cams for this climb is a bit of a sandbag! I would probably take the following gear the next time I climb this one.

1X -> #1, 2 #1's, 4-6 #2's, 2 #3's, 1 #3.5, a few large nuts

By slim
Administrator
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Guy, you're not serious are you? My wife lead it with a double set and was pretty comfortable. She doesn't really run stuff out either. Did you miss some placements for smaller gear? Four to six #2's? I'm not quite sure if you could find enough room in the crack to fit so many!

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jul 30, 2007

Slim, the climb stays at the #2 size for about 50ft. I wouldn't call 4-6 cams in that size to be excessive. I am sure you could search around for smaller gear, if you had to. I would think the average climber would be wanting more than 2 #2's on this climb, assuming that you didn't carry hex's.

By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 7, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There are birds living in this crack.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 7, 2007

It may give you 50 feet of perfect hand jams, but the crack tapers down to smaller than that a LOT. So you could get away with a double set if you didn't feel like placing gear in your jams, or preferred to go deeper with your placements.

Also, if you find yourself bouted by the start, head over towards the Plumbline Crag and fire off the boulder problem "Unnamed Crack 2". It's basically the same moves, but you don't have to fiddle with gear.

By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Felt way harder than the first pitch of Pooh Corner. Leader only used 2 #2s also and had gear placements every body length.

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very awkward start and then pretty big and rattly hands for me...but hey I prefer BD #1.

By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Birds still there 5 years later. Actually made me think of the Hitchcock movie; they went nuts so loud and at such a high pitch that the cam I had in my hand resonated like a tuning fork. Weird. Stellar climb.

By Michael Mahoney
From: Gillette, WY
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'd like the climb better if the top wasn't painted white with bird crap at the top. It's impossible to avoid. Caught myself wiping my hands across my mouth a couple times after the climb...yuck. I believe the flared hands of the backward leaning crack at the beginning to be a solid 10a and rate the climb accordingly. 3 star route that would be 4 minus the bird dung.

By Stephen Burns
From: Coloardo
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Bird poop can be avoided easily with creative stemming, and they make some very fun noises at you. Fun climb, awkward start.