Climb and Punishment 

Super fun, but very sustained. My partner had A LOT more trouble with this one than the 10a part of Friday the 13th.

Classic. It's easy to look at this and say, "ah, #2's!", but don't forget a couple #3 Camalot-sized pieces for the upper half of the pitch.

Perfect, bomber hand jams can be had the whole way up if you look for them. This pitch is more difficult than it looks.

Sustained. Hexes are useful, since all of the jams are so slotter. Penis Dimension is easily toproped after leading this.

This is a great route. Harder than it looks. Sinker jams the whole way. Gear list is perfect. Watch the rope when lowering off - a 60m makes it with little room to spare.

Super classic.

With the exception of the first 10 feet which are a bit awkward, sinker jams the whole way.

I am glad I didn't listen to Ben's advice on the gear. The suggestion of a double set of cams for this climb is a bit of a sandbag! I would probably take the following gear the next time I climb this one.

1X -> #1, 2 #1's, 4-6 #2's, 2 #3's, 1 #3.5, a few large nuts

Guy, you're not serious are you? My wife lead it with a double set and was pretty comfortable. She doesn't really run stuff out either. Did you miss some placements for smaller gear? Four to six #2's? I'm not quite sure if you could find enough room in the crack to fit so many!

Slim, the climb stays at the #2 size for about 50ft. I wouldn't call 4-6 cams in that size to be excessive. I am sure you could search around for smaller gear, if you had to. I would think the average climber would be wanting more than 2 #2's on this climb, assuming that you didn't carry hex's.

There are birds living in this crack.

It may give you 50 feet of perfect hand jams, but the crack tapers down to smaller than that a LOT. So you could get away with a double set if you didn't feel like placing gear in your jams, or preferred to go deeper with your placements.

Also, if you find yourself bouted by the start, head over towards the Plumbline Crag and fire off the boulder problem "Unnamed Crack 2". It's basically the same moves, but you don't have to fiddle with gear.

Felt way harder than the first pitch of Pooh Corner. Leader only used 2 #2s also and had gear placements every body length.

Very awkward start and then pretty big and rattly hands for me...but hey I prefer BD #1.

Birds still there 5 years later. Actually made me think of the Hitchcock movie; they went nuts so loud and at such a high pitch that the cam I had in my hand resonated like a tuning fork. Weird. Stellar climb.

I'd like the climb better if the top wasn't painted white with bird crap at the top. It's impossible to avoid. Caught myself wiping my hands across my mouth a couple times after the climb...yuck. I believe the flared hands of the backward leaning crack at the beginning to be a solid 10a and rate the climb accordingly. 3 star route that would be 4 minus the bird dung.