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 ADVANCED
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M T,TR 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Unknown Right Arete T 

Climb and Punishment 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Bret Ruckman, Gary Olsen 1984
Page Views: 1,792
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 11, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...

Description 

This route climbs the splitter on the 3rd slab from the left. Besides a scrambling beginning, this climb is beautiful. It lends itself to perfect finger jams and stacked finger jams. WOW! I would hike to Penitentiary just for this climb.


Protection 

This route shares the anchor system (slings on a flake), so bring extras just in case. It protects with small to medium gear.



Photos of Climb and Punishment Slideshow Add Photo
Great splitter, albeit too short.
Great splitter, albeit too short.
Climb & Punishment is the splitter centered in the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Climb & Punishment is the splitter centered in the...
Beautiful hand crack. <br />
Beautiful hand crack.
Comments on Climb and Punishment Add Comment
Show which comments
By vincent pierce
Sep 14, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

A very fun climb. Looking to crack into the 5.9 trad game? This may be the one for you. The first fifteen feet is maybe a 5.9 finger that protects well with something small and then the crack gets wide and real easy to the top. I just wish it was fifty feet longer.

By Nathan Fisher
Aug 3, 2005

Lead this one today, and it protects very well. Brass nut for the initial moves, then increasingly larger cams up to a #4 DMM. Nuts do work, but because of the relatively parallel nature of the crack, cams are easier. I did use a large hex up top, so the #4 was redundant (I always try to use my trusty hexes at least once).

By Lee Gitlin
Aug 15, 2005

This is a quality splitter. Start with finger locks, working hard for good feet. Be thankful for the jugs mid route, then get ready for some jams. I found it to be just a wee bit too tight for a full fist jam, but your mileage will undoubtedly vary. Only route length keeps this from being a true classic.

By TobinPetty
From: Boise, ID
May 26, 2006

I left two pieces in the bottom of the crack; one nut and #0 power cam with a draw. I left them due to a climbing accident that occured there with a buddy of mine on 05.26.06; I was unable to retrieve them at the time and would appreciate it greatly if someone finds them before I can get back, that they contact me and I'll take them out to dinner or something for their generosity. More to come on the climbing accident in the days to follow.

By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
May 14, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Classic! And possibly to easiest-to-protect climb at the penitentiary

By Rachelle J. Ross
Jun 24, 2009

This is a classic whether it's short or not! Worth the dicey approach up a steep rock field (make sure you aren't coming down in the dark). The finger jambs are classic and that two handed lip in the middle feels like it's big enough for a picnic by the time you reach it. The right gear makes this route very well protected and a whole lotta fun.

By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 31, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Starts as a seam and opens wider in a hurry but the initial moves on the meat of the climb are stout. Difficulty varies based on finger size but since I've got fatter fingers this felt like a couple serious 5.9 moves. Those with slimmer fingers will probably feel great on the #.3 section.