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Cliffs of Insanity
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  
As you wish 
Back to the Beginning 
Battle of Wits 
Broken Brain 
Brute Squad 
cave route  
Dirty Spaniard, The 
Fairy Dust 
Farm Boy 
Fezzik  
Fire Swamp, The 
Funny Farm 
Gilder 
Inconceivable 
Iocane Powder 
Iron Lady Tower, The 
jew fro an a boner 
Jumping the Shark 
Lobotomy 
M.C.'s Hammer 
Man In Black 
Mawwage 
Nurse Rachet 
Nutter 
Offwidth Your Head 
Prince Humperdinky 
Princess Buttercup 
Puzzle Factory 
R.O.U.S 
Six Fingerd Man 
Storming the Castle 
Str8 Jacket 
To The Pain 
True Love 
Unamed 5.10+ 
Unknown 
Unknown 5.10+ 
Unknown OW 
Vinciny 
Wiggins I 
Wiggins II 
Unsorted Routes:

Cliffs of Insanity 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 25, 2006

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Matt H climbing Wiggins 1

Description 

A remote wall that is seldom visited for its lack of easier quality lines. There are probably a few very difficult lines to be had here but few people venture here.


Getting There 

A 45 minute approach


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cliffs of Insanity:
Farm Boy   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
cave route    5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Vinciny   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
R.O.U.S   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Princess Buttercup   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Brute Squad   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Unamed 5.10+   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   
Unknown 5.10+   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
M.C.'s Hammer   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Wiggins I   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Nurse Rachet   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Jumping the Shark   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Funny Farm   5.11+     Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet   
Man In Black   5.12-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Wiggins II   5.12-     Trad, 150 feet   
Six Fingerd Man   5.12-     Trad, 1 pitch, 57 feet   
Inconceivable   5.12-     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Puzzle Factory   5.12     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Broken Brain   5.12b/c     Trad, 120 feet   
Str8 Jacket   5.12c     Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet   
Browse More Classics in Cliffs of Insanity

Featured Route For Cliffs of Insanity
Climber on Wiggins II

Wiggins II 5.12-  UT : Moab Area : ... : Cliffs of Insanity
The book describes the route as thin hands to tips, but it really goes thin hands to tips and then gradually widens to big hands. There is one drilled pin in the middle, right before the tips. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Cliffs of Insanity Slideshow Add Photo
The Cliffs of Insanity at the end of the day.

The Cliffs of Insanity at the end of the day.

READY FOR THE WALK DOWN.

READY FOR THE WALK DOWN.

Ed the man'

Ed the man'

doing my best to help the crew of drunks get their rope up Wiggins 1

doing my best to help the crew of drunks get their...

starting backwards in a climb that dosent look very easy first off.

starting backwards in a climb that dosent look ver...

sunset

sunset

cleaning up a sweet new rout just left of Fairy Dust... this block went after i set the anchor ... an sed boombs away

cleaning up a sweet new rout just left of Fairy Du...

pitch ofering to the creek gods...

pitch ofering to the creek gods...

the best love story ever told!

the best love story ever told!


Comments on Cliffs of Insanity Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 15, 2007

Can anybody give me more specifics on where to park for Cliffs of Insanity and where the approach trail starts. Bloom's guide does not seem to give definitive info. I was trying to scope the approach a couple years back but could not find the trail. I want to avoid slogging/eroding up the talus sans trail if possible.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 5, 2009

Some friends and I just made a new trail about a week ago on the north side of the cliff. Take the same dirt road as if your going to "The Wall" but stay straight instead of turning left. Follow the road for a half mile or so and take the first right and then the next right into a parking area with a fire ring. The trail is well marked and easy to follow and takes about 30 minutes to get to the base of the wall.

By alf
Feb 22, 2010

To Steve and friends:
thankyou very much for giving us a trail!
That is a lot of work and many folks will appreciate it.

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012

Great trail! Thanx!!!

The road to the trail requires 4x4 and high clearance. I wouldn't take an Escape, Forrester, CR-V etc up the road. It is way too steep and rough. Yes the section is pretty short but still. We parked at the obvious flat parking area before the rough spot. Then hoofed it for a mile across the desert. A mtn bike would have been nice. The new trail is at the extreme left side of the cliff.

Now I must admit, after climbing on the right side of the cliff and looking straight down at our vehicle made it pretty difficult to hike all the way back along the cliff to the new trail and then back track a mile across the desert. Instead we used the old climbers trail that headed straight down. I think as an alternative trail to the cliff, especially if you don't have 4x4 or if you want to climb Lobotomy etc is to improve this old climbers trail.

By doligo
Nov 4, 2012

Just a heads up, there was a big rockfall on Halloween night 2012 - friends witnessed it from the Creek Pasture around 5pm. We climbed at the Cliffs the next day and found a rubble with bus-size boulders just right from the Puzzle Factory. That whole stretch of the trail is destroyed - thread lightly.