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Hidden Valley Wall
Routes Sorted
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Black Beauty 
Cliff Break Fern 
Don King Crack 
Float Like a Butterfly 
Gardensmith Bypass Shears 
Gorilla in Manilla 
Hidden Valley Offwidth  
Made In the Shade 
Never Ending Story 
Obe Won Canobe 
So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? 
Summer Solstice 
Walking Wounded, The 

Cliff Break Fern 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: KC Baum, Tom Archibeque, 6/10/1988
Page Views: 319
Submitted By: Jeremy Werlin on May 9, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The far north end of Hidden Valley Wall.

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P1: Begin with stemming and hand/finger jams in a short shallow chimney. Continue up the hand/fist crack, milking stems and chimney moves until the pinnacle tops out and you have to commit to the fist crack (crux). Good crack climbing brings you to the top of a small pinnacle/ledge and 2 bolts with chains.

P2: Continue up (5.6-5.8) on any number of variations through less-than-stellar rock and teetering blocks to the top.

I would recommend missing the second pitch and rappelling on a single 60m from the chains at the top of P1.

This route has cleaned up nicely and has a lot of great climbing.


Look for the big left-facing corner formed by a pinnacle, 25 feet south and downhill of Made In the Shade. Cliff Break Fern is almost directly opposite Luxor on the Fortress Wall.

Descent: Either rappel from the top of P1 with a single 60m or, if topping out, walk north to the top of the gully and hike down a faint climber's trail.


Small to 3.5. 2- #3 Camalots recommended. 2 bolts with chains at the top of P1.

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