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Cleopatra's Needle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral T 
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib T,TR 
East Comfort Route T 
Northwest Side T,TR 
Southeast Arete T 

Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,880
Submitted By: Maikey Lopera on Jul 27, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Aaron and Rebekah enjoying the view from Cleo's ne...

Description 

This route is on the opposite side of the regular route up Cleo's Needle. The route starts below an overhang between the two obvious cracks. Surpass the overhang by climbing the right crack. Once over the overhang follow the rib up to the ledge below summit block. Traverse left to another ledge at same level. Once on this ledge climb to the top on small edges and right corner (crux of the route). Belay at the top from the summit ring.

Protection 

To protect up to the ledge below the summit block use medium size nuts and cams( up to 1"). The move left from the rib to the ledge is well protected with a red allien(0.75"). Once on ledge a #3 BD stopper can be used on horizontal crack at the base of the summit block.


Photos of Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stewart Korte of the HWDAMF having a quick drink
Stewart Korte of the HWDAMF having a quick drink
Rock Climbing Photo: Stewart Korte and Chris Keller of the HWDAMF enjoy...
Stewart Korte and Chris Keller of the HWDAMF enjoy...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleos Needle_Southwest Rib 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Cleos Needle_Southwest Rib 5.7
Rock Climbing Photo: My brother Daniel reaches the top of the needle.
My brother Daniel reaches the top of the needle.
Rock Climbing Photo: This has gotta be the best way to the top.  You st...
This has gotta be the best way to the top. You st...
Rock Climbing Photo: Southwest Rib.
Southwest Rib.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top Out on Cleos
Top Out on Cleos

Comments on Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib Add Comment
Show which comments
By Don LaBelle
Jan 31, 2005

Climbed with Ben Sanders, ( he led it and I cleaned it)was in the spring, and was a nice route. There is a permenent bolt to rap down on at the top. This is a good place to have lunch.
By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 6, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I started in the dihedral to the left of the line drawn in the picture and followed that up till I was at the base of the summit block. I then went around to the right and up to the summit. This route needs to see more traffic, there was too many spiders & webs on the way up. The summit is what earns it 3 stars.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 16, 2008

Stephen,

You are talking about the 5.6 dihedral that starts to the left of the 5.7 rib. I just climbed it. It was pretty fun.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 21, 2008

I've always finished this route by way of the standard block finish, which climbs up the east-side of the block.

The nut in a horizontal protects the top block. I think the nut makes it pretty well protected. The block climbing is probably 5.4ish.

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