This route is on the opposite side of the regular route up Cleo's Needle. The route starts below an overhang between the two obvious cracks. Surpass the overhang by climbing the right crack. Once over the overhang follow the rib up to the ledge below summit block. Traverse left to another ledge at same level. Once on this ledge climb to the top on small edges and right corner (crux of the route). Belay at the top from the summit ring.
To protect up to the ledge below the summit block use medium size nuts and cams( up to 1"). The move left from the rib to the ledge is well protected with a red allien(0.75"). Once on ledge a #3 BD stopper can be used on horizontal crack at the base of the summit block.
|By Don LaBelle|
Jan 31, 2005
Climbed with Ben Sanders, ( he led it and I cleaned it)was in the spring, and was a nice route. There is a permenent bolt to rap down on at the top. This is a good place to have lunch.
|By Stephen Marsh|
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 6, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I started in the dihedral to the left of the line drawn in the picture and followed that up till I was at the base of the summit block. I then went around to the right and up to the summit. This route needs to see more traffic, there was too many spiders & webs on the way up. The summit is what earns it 3 stars.
|By John W. Knoernschild|
Jul 16, 2008
You are talking about the 5.6 dihedral that starts to the left of the 5.7 rib. I just climbed it. It was pretty fun.
|By Andrew Krosbakken|
Nov 21, 2008
Is there any place for pro towards the top or is it run out?
I see there is a #3 bd nut placement on the summit block, is that the last placement? if so how far is the top from there?
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 21, 2008
I've always finished this route by way of the standard block finish, which climbs up the east-side of the block.
The nut in a horizontal protects the top block. I think the nut makes it pretty well protected. The block climbing is probably 5.4ish.