Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral 5.6
| 1,311 page views Good page?  |
Doug leading Cleopatra's Needle via her underbelly...
Add Photo Printer View
Description Start in the Dihedral on the Southwest side of the needle. It is the left most crack on that side. Continue up through overhang. Make an awkward move or 2 and continue up to the small ledge at the base of the summit block. Move around to the left (west) and continue up on easy holds. There is no pro for the last 15 ft here. Move up and clip the big ring on top. Don't forget to stand up and enjoy the view.
Location On the southwest side of the needle. Start in the left most crack in the dihedral.
Protection Small cams, small wires, small to medium tricams
| Comments on Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral |
|
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Jul 16, 2008
| When me and my partner Paul reached the summit, we had a safety meeting. With each cough you could feel the block wobble. We freaked out a bit at first and then just starting geeking out, which didn't help with the wobble either. After a few minutes of laughter and enjoying the view, we rapped down. |
By Trad Nanny Jul 16, 2008
| LOL! Been that way for years! Welcome to the club. |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 16, 2008
| What's been that way for years? Safety meetings? |
By Trad Nanny Jul 17, 2008
| Well, I'm not quite sure what a "safety meeting" is, but I can say that damn block has been freaking people out for some time now, and the club I'm referring to is the club of being freaked out. Climb on! I don't think Mr. Sanders trolls this site but if he's out there, but Ben I wish I had a photo of the look on your face when we were up there and he discovered the whole damn thing was moving! P.S. I've just been informed what a "safety meeting" is. Thank you to Vince for enlightening me :) And, yes it's been that way for years. |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Jul 17, 2008
| Jay, I think both have been that way for years. LOL! I wish I had a camera so Paul could see the look on his face. Sheer terror. Then visions of the hole block falling and taking us with it! |
By Tom Hanson Jul 18, 2008
| It's been rocking since at least the late seventies |
By Kris Gorny Administrator Jul 23, 2008
| And one day it's gonna go 'boom'... |
By Andrew Krosbakken Nov 21, 2008
| So is this needle even safe to climb?? I don't want the thing coming down when Im on there? Do a lot of people still climb it? |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 21, 2008
| Andrew, It's been rocking for eons (or since the late 70's--same thing). The single bolt used for rapping off the top should be more of a concern. Seriously, though, the route is worth doing. It's a classic DL experience. |
By Andrew Krosbakken Nov 24, 2008
| Now is that whole needle wobblin or just the "little" block that is the last like 5 or so feet? |
By Trad Nanny Nov 24, 2008
| Just the last block I believe. |
By Andrew Krosbakken Nov 24, 2008
| ok good, that makes it a little less insane. Thanks Jay? can you second this? just the last 5 or 6 feet. |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 25, 2008
| Yeah. Nick's right. It's unnerving but I never got the feeling like it would fall off. |
By James M Schroeder From: Sauk County, WI Nov 25, 2008
| It's unnerving, but I don't think it's going anywhere... |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Apr 2, 2009
| It's more like the last 10ft or so that is wobbly. But I dont think it's going anywhere either. Just unnerving to feel it move when your hooked up to it. |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Apr 2, 2009
| Do you know that once way back in time Cleo's Needle fell down. The Army Corps of Engineers erected a big crane and hoisted it back up onto it's resting place and as well placed the large iron spike that keeps it all level..... Whoops....... the 1st of April was yesterday........ |
By jay.kalamazoo From: kalamazoo, mi Oct 19, 2009
| i got the top and the my second was coming up. the tower starts to wiggle....i think...i'll jump into those trees if this thing falls...that will help break my fall. And then i realize....i'm anchored into the top of the needle...and if it goes, i'm going with it. much like the gendarme at seneca, climbing this thing is a must and a exercise in faith. |
By Mr. Mix From: Sauk City, WI Mar 18, 2012
| Dam, Melissa and I were up on top of this yesterday and she tells me she can feel the whole thing shift in the wind. I tell her to stop being a baby, it is all in her head. I don't think it's important to mention to her I was wrong. However, that little bolt in the rap ring from the sixties is a bit unnerving. Great climb though. |
By Patrick Brewer Apr 6, 2012
| I finally got on the Needle yesterday via a few different routes. The view was excellent and I even spotted a peregrine falcon. My brother said he could feel the wobble but I disappointingly did not. That pin and ring are definitely not the original one. (I'm sure the '64 is a tribute to the first pin placed.) Does anyone know when the newer pin and ring were placed though, or by whom? Since it is the only piece between you and the deck, it'd be nice to know about it's origin. |
By Paul Campbell From: Sussex, WI Apr 7, 2012 rating: 5.6
| Oh... its original! |
|