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By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Oct 11, 2015
The East Face of Cleos, the West Face of Venus Needle, the West Buttress of Navajo Needle (the classic routes on each of these three towers) all go free. No pitons needed.
1. Cleos, (via the original direct line) is about C2 or C2+, bring LOTS of med-large stoppers (some may be hard to clean).
2. Venus Needle West Face C2, crux leaving the first belay with awkward stemming and/or awkward big cams;
3. Navajo Needle West Face C2. One or two thin crack sections now have pin scars that take good nuts. Mostly, expect cams, 2-6"
Fixed gear at belays on these routes is old and may need replacement, but, as of 2015, NO pitons needed for aid on these routes! These might well go entirely free, but not to a geriatric has-been like me.
Be sure to talk to member of the Diné Rock Climbers Coalition first. Respect for the locals and the local climbing community goes a long way toward ensuring a good climb and continued access, good people! Huge thanks to Alex and Quentin for all their help.