Cleopatra's Needle Area Rock Climbing
Angel Wing from the skinny side. The Bandito Route...
This area in on the border of Arizona and New Mexico, about 17 miles north of Fort Defiance, (Which is north of Gallup, New Mexico). There are 4 major spires in the area; Cleopatra's Needle (Which could very well be the skinnest spire in the world), Venus Needle, Navajo Needle, and Angel Wing.
Drive north from Fort Defiance for about 17 miles to this area. Angel Wing is the only spire visible from the main road;... the others are back on dirt roads to the east.
Climbing Season For the Northern Arizona area.
Weather station 15.9 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Cleopatra's Needle Area
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cleopatra's Needle Area:
Featured Route For Cleopatra's Needle Area
Cleopatra's Needle, East Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Northern Arizona
: ... : Cleopatra's Needle Area
This climb is 3 pitches. The formation just sort of jets out of a flat field;..there are dirt roads directly to the base of the formation. The first pitch (climbs the pedestal) starts on the right side of the East Face and diagonals up and left to a ledge at the base of the actual steep "headwall" section. The first pitch is sort of loose, sort of junky, and about 5.8. Pitch two is where the "business" starts; make a 5.9 move to a ledge, traverse right to the main crack a...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Oct 11, 2015
The East Face of Cleos, the West Face of Venus Needle, the West Buttress of Navajo Needle (the classic routes on each of these three towers) all go free. No pitons needed.
1. Cleos, (via the original direct line) is about C2 or C2+, bring LOTS of med-large stoppers (some may be hard to clean).
2. Venus Needle West Face C2, crux leaving the first belay with awkward stemming and/or awkward big cams;
3. Navajo Needle West Face C2. One or two thin crack sections now have pin scars that take good nuts. Mostly, expect cams, 2-6"
Fixed gear at belays on these routes is old and may need replacement, but, as of 2015, NO pitons needed for aid on these routes! These might well go entirely free, but not to a geriatric has-been like me.
Be sure to talk to member of the Diné Rock Climbers Coalition first. Respect for the locals and the local climbing community goes a long way toward ensuring a good climb and continued access, good people! Huge thanks to Alex and Quentin for all their help.