|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Bob Gaines, Yvonne MacPherson, Todd Gordon, & Alan Bartlett, October 1989|
|Submitted By:||Randy on Dec 1, 2002|
|Comments on Cleopatra||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By C Miller
Jan 17, 2003
|Originally done with five bolts; the FA party later decided to add the topmost bolt.|
By Bob Gaines
Jan 29, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I went back recently and led this route for the second time, 24 years after the first ascent!
The bolts are in great shape, but you'll probably want a piece at the start (I used a #3 camalot) to protect the moves getting up to the first bolt, which consists of liebacking then standing up on a fragile flake to the clip the first bolt. You can get a CD behind this flake, but it can't be trusted 'cause the flake is wafer thin. It's about 5.6 R to stand up on the flake. I wouldn't call it a sport climb.
Once you clip the first bolt, it's 10c to get up to the horizontal break, then a wild lieback/stem gets you established on the upper face. It's sustained (mostly 5.10 moves) and well protected, with the crux clipping and getting past the 5th bolt without falling, which involves some pretty tough smearing that is both delicate and strenuous at the same time.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 11, 2014
|^^^ Thanks Bob. I should have just stopped after looking at the star rating but no... had to read your comments. "some pretty tough smearing that is both delicate and strenuous at the same time" ..... sounds delightful? (not)|