The route starts on the north-facing side of a large squarish block on the left side of the Sphinx formation. Scramble up boulders to access the base. An easy layback/flake leads to continuous steep smears past six bolts to the summit. The excellent rock and moves make this a classic Josh friction route.
6 bolts provide excellent protection. 2 bolt anchor on top; rap off 70 feet to ground.
Bob Gaines at the crux of Cleopatra
photo by Jame...
|By C Miller|
Jan 17, 2003
Originally done with five bolts; the FA party later decided to add the topmost bolt.
|By Bob Gaines|
Jan 29, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I went back recently and led this route for the second time, 24 years after the first ascent!
The bolts are in great shape, but you'll probably want a piece at the start (I used a #3 camalot) to protect the moves getting up to the first bolt, which consists of liebacking then standing up on a fragile flake to the clip the first bolt. You can get a CD behind this flake, but it can't be trusted 'cause the flake is wafer thin. It's about 5.6 R to stand up on the flake. I wouldn't call it a sport climb.
Once you clip the first bolt, it's 10c to get up to the horizontal break, then a wild lieback/stem gets you established on the upper face. It's sustained (mostly 5.10 moves) and well protected, with the crux clipping and getting past the 5th bolt without falling, which involves some pretty tough smearing that is both delicate and strenuous at the same time.