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Torre Principal
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Clemenzo 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,440
Submitted By: Joseph August on Nov 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Josh leading a pitch on Clemenzo. The OW looked i...

Description 

This is a ... six pitch route? I believe we did it in six. The first two are easy climbing 4a to 4b, eventually reaching a ledge belay, followed by a 5a section to a second ledge belay. After that, there's a pitch topped with a fantastic cave that contains a giant triangle which requires you to walk out towards space. In the back wall are wedged old pieces of wood. The route still has quite a few old pitons, some having been replaced by bolts. The summit block is technically the most difficult section, a face climb across ten old pitons and new bolts to the incredible summit.

Location 

Middle of the east face of Principal.

Protection 

We carried a set of nuts and a double rack to BD 3.5. All raps are fixed stations. One of the last is an equalized pair of old pitons!


Photos of Clemenzo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The old wooden spikes on the P4 wild cave pitch.
The old wooden spikes on the P4 wild cave pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lari exiting the 'cave'. Fun pitch!
Lari exiting the 'cave'. Fun pitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Clemenzo chimney!
Clemenzo chimney!
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice fingers before the chimney
Nice fingers before the chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading out of the Cave belay on Clemenzo.  I reme...
Leading out of the Cave belay on Clemenzo. I reme...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dennis atop Torre Principal
Dennis atop Torre Principal
Rock Climbing Photo: Dennis starts up Clemenzo.
Dennis starts up Clemenzo.

Comments on Clemenzo Add Comment
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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Jan 23, 2014

We summited via a 6a face climb after traversing around following the cave pitch. Rapped straight (ish) down and found 60 m rope to be somehow just short on several of our raps... so be careful!
By alon
Oct 13, 2014

Regarding Clemenzo,
Beautiful alpine route, I think you should be solid on 5.9 to have fun.
The first and second pitch are 4+. But I'm not sure If I' ll do them without a rope. What I' m saying is that they are involved pitches. Fun.
The third pitch, chimeny/ dihedro ( sorry the translation) it felt 5,9, solid but My buddy selected the gear and I Forgot Lucas was a 5.12+ climber. So I was kind of gripped for the lack of gear.
The cave (4 pitch) it's a really funky funny crazy pitch, ( short). you sort of walk on an edge and push against the roofed crack.
Then you traverse/ walk right. The last pitch is 6a or 9+ face with bolts ( 5 or 6 bolts)
You can rappel the whole route vía "the normal route" with one 60 mts rope.
Frey is a superb high quality granite spire área. It's defínetly a climbing destination. And it's possible to spend 3 months, between climbing, the sun, the lake, the hut. And been just a few hours from the city.
By Chad N in Central CA
From: Central California
Feb 5, 2016

We did this in 5 pitches, with a walk over on the ledge after P4, 60m rope ok, party of 3. When you find the green painted rock that could be the start, scramble up the 4th/low5th class stuff 10-15 meters to just before the harder 5.8 (?) moves.... felt much harder. Probably best to move the belay R to L on the white ledge after P2, but we pitched it out for a very nice and long ~55 meter pitch (long runners) of crack and chimney climbing. Again, felt harder than 5+, more like 6a. No pro in the chimney, but at a horizontal crack, #2 cam, & last pro if you stay in the chimney, there is a variation to move right at the horizontal to more crack (w/ more pro?) but I stayed in the chimney, faced right, good foot holds, and ran it out until 2 pitons (backed up w/ small cams) to the belay right before the wild 'cave' pitch. I'm not speaking of the first wide crack/ chimney you'll see moving across the ledge. It's farther left, the open book/ corner feature that the topo line is drawn on in the guidebook.

The 'cave' is fun, and easier for tall people. The old wooden pitons can be backed up w/ med. hand size cams. Great pitch, then coil ropes and walk L to R on the huge ledge, scramble up some easy low 5th moves to the bolted belay, then send the last 6a face/slab pitch well protected with pitons and bolts to the fantastic summit. Watch out for a rope eating flake on the 2nd rap (normal route). A condor almost grabbed me right off the upper ledge!

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