Cleavage  5.9

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Jim Wilson '90 Submitted By:  Scott Coldiron on Jul 30, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This two pitch climb can be done in 1 easily, or stop at P1's chain anchors and rap off. The links are getting thin, so not a good spot to lower from. If you do the whole thing you can walk off.

P1:Start in the shallow dihedral and follow the bolts onto the slab. The crux is a mantle which can feel committing on lead. There are no moves, however, which feel like hard 5.9.
P2: Plug gear in the vertical cracks straight up to the top. A grade easier, but gritty.

Location 

Right next to the railroad tracks, 50 ft. east of Rysinzube. It's the bolt line to the right that follows a groove.

Protection 

P1 (40ft.): bolts to chain anchor.
P2: (60 (ft.): standard rack to 2". a lean rack will do. It's short.