|Redgarden - Roof Routes
This is a "direct" (straight-up) start to Guenese which is most-often top-roped off the double-bolt anchors below the roof band, hence the proliferation of chalk on the holds. It climbs the rounded pillar feature down and right of the start of Guenese before tackling a cruxy leftwards traverse that leads into the upper half of the first pitch of Guenese.
Some shaky psychological pro can be placed in a loose flake down and right before starting the traverse, but it's more likely to whack you in the face than hold a fall. Thankfully, the holds are positive and the deck is a mere 30+ feet away.
You can't get much in besides psychological pro --the smallest TCU you have (Metolius #00) and an RP or two go behind some horribly flexing flakes. Once you reach Guenese you'll need a mid-range cam and some quickdraws for the bolts.
|By Joe Huggins|
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Feb 14, 2002
I remember belaying Eric on this, it was real scary. He used Chouinard Cracknups for pro. Good thing he didn't fall.
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 16, 2005
Lead this thing onsight with a few draws and small wires. Never used the wires. Basically soloed it except for clipping the bolt on high on Guenese.