Clear the Deck 5.11a X
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | [Eric Guokas led, 1983] |
| Submitted By: | Pinklebear on Nov 7, 2001 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This is a "direct" (straight-up) start to Guenese which is most-often top-roped off the double-bolt anchors below the roof band, hence the proliferation of chalk on the holds. It climbs the rounded pillar feature down and right of the start of Guenese before tackling a cruxy leftwards traverse that leads into the upper half of the first pitch of Guenese.
Some shaky psychological pro can be placed in a loose flake down and right before starting the traverse, but it's more likely to whack you in the face than hold a fall. Thankfully, the holds are positive and the deck is a mere 30+ feet away.
Protection You can't get much in besides psychological pro --the smallest TCU you have (Metolius #00) and an RP or two go behind some horribly flexing flakes. Once you reach Guenese you'll need a mid-range cam and some quickdraws for the bolts.
| Comments on Clear the Deck |
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By Joe Huggins
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Feb 14, 2002
| I remember belaying Eric on this, it was real scary. He used Chouinard Cracknups for pro. Good thing he didn't fall. |
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 16, 2005
Gear Alert
| The climbing on this pitch is fun, although I DO NOT recommend this route to anyone for whom it is anywhere near his or her top level of ability. I was much stronger than the route when I did it. Falling is not an option. To do so, especially from the crux, will likely prove fatal. I did the route on-sight, with a rack of quickdraws and a few tiny RPs. Within the first twenty feet, it became clear to me that I would be soloing up to the bolt on Guenese. At that point, I shouted down to my belayer, [Boulos], just give me lots of slack and get out of the way, so that we both don't die." Sorry, B, but I never did know how to spell your name. The look on his face actually made me chuckle, although I was acutely aware of the seriousness of my situation. This route is essentially a free solo up the last bolt on Guenese. The crux move is a left-handed gaston on a small positive edge, at approximately thirty feet above the deck. |
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