Type: Trad
FA: [Eric Guokas led, 1983]
Page Views: 1,933 total · 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Nov 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a "direct" (straight-up) start to Guenese which is most-often top-roped off the double-bolt anchors below the roof band, hence the proliferation of chalk on the holds. It climbs the rounded pillar feature down and right of the start of Guenese before tackling a cruxy leftwards traverse that leads into the upper half of the first pitch of Guenese.

Some shaky psychological pro can be placed in a loose flake down and right before starting the traverse, but it's more likely to whack you in the face than hold a fall. Thankfully, the holds are positive and the deck is a mere 30+ feet away.

Protection Suggest change

You can't get much in besides psychological pro --the smallest TCU you have (Metolius #00) and an RP or two go behind some horribly flexing flakes. Once you reach Guenese you'll need a mid-range cam and some quickdraws for the bolts.

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