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North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burley Dudes T,S 
Clear Lycra T,S 
Cup of Java S,TR 
El Nino T,S 
Hammerhead T 
Platte Magic T,S 
Traditionalists at Play TR 
Traditionalists at Work S 
Way Jingus TR 

Clear Lycra 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: spring through fall (north facing)
Page Views: 321
Submitted By: slim on Jul 21, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: A rope on the route.

Description 

Clear Lycra is a very good, pretty long, steep slab route on nice rock. As with all of the routes on this wall, the first bolt is up there a ways, and continuously difficult climbing is found well above the bolts.

Begin from the bergshrund-like rock gully and carefully edge, smedge, and smear past the first 2 bolts (this felt like the crux). Above the 2nd bolt, angle up and left on easier climbing (Hubbel's blue book shows this as up and right) to the 3rd bolt. The climbing gets less steep above the 3rd bolt, but is still fairly continuous in the 5.9 range. Hubbel's book shows a bolted anchor to the right, but I didn't see it. Instead, there is a fairly stout juniper on a ledge up to the right.

Location 

Clear Lycra is the [2nd] left-most route on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall.

Scramble up a rock gully at the base of the wall (kind of like a rock bergschrund). Hubbel's guide shows bolted anchors at the top, but they aren't there. There is a sturdy juniper to the right, but you will need webbing and biners if you want to rap. Or, you can walk left on the ledge and hike down. Or, you can traverse the ledge farther to the right to a 2 bolt anchor (old buttonheads and/or Stardryvens) which will require new webbing.

Protection 

5 good bolts if I remember correctly. Continuous, 5.9 to 5.10ish climbing is encountered well above the bolts.


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By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Mar 9, 2012

youtube.com/watch?feature=ends...
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 12, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

2nd bolted line from the left (left line is not currently in the DB). Gave this a rating of 11- as it felt harder than the 11b Way Jingus. Fell at the 4th bolt multiple time (lots of lichen probably contributed).
By slim
Administrator
Feb 21, 2016

This route is currently the 2nd from the left (as Ralph pointed out). When I first posted these routes, "Cup of Java", which is now the leftmost route, didn't exist.

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