Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cleaning without leaving tat on fixed gear.
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Mark Hudon
Jul 26, 2012
On the North America Wall in 1977.

Here is a real trick way to cleaning traverses and overhangs and not leave any tat on fixed gear.

Go get a 20 or 25 foot piece of 5 mil cord.

Tie a loop into one end and clip it to the belay loop on your harness. When you climb up to a cabbage patch of tat, run the 5 mil right through the eye of the piece, right through the wire, right through the bolt hanger, the rivet hanger, the pin, whatever.

the initial setup
the initial setup


Notice that before you tie the Munter but have the 5 mil clipped back to your harness, you have a 3:1 mechanical advantage! You can use that to pull yourself closer to the piece you are hanging from easily. This is great because now you can get out your belay knife and cut off all that useless and ugly tat. Stuff it in a pocket and in your wall garbage bag and take a photo of the mound of stuff youíve cleaned off the route when youíre on top!

Munter Mule

(BTW I don't use the Mule, I just toss a few half hitches on the cord)

Pull it all through till itís tight to your harness and then secure it to yourself with a Munter and secure the Munter with a Munter Mule.

second step
second step


The Munter tied off
The Munter tied off


Anyway, once you cut off all the tat, release the Mule and lower yourself out, using the friction of the Munter, till you reach the end of the 5 mil. You should be well below the next piece and can simply let go of the free end and pull it though the now naked piece!


FLAG
By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Jul 27, 2012

Don't get why this would be easier than a regular lower out...


FLAG
By Gregger Man
Jul 27, 2012
gg

Ranar wrote:
Don't get why this would be easier than a regular lower out...


Ranar-
I believe the point is this:
A strand of 5mm will go through a small or jagged opening (eye of a pin)
A strand of the lead rope will not/(should not)

Mark has done good work cleaning up the Captain.

[edit - strand, not bight. First cup of coffee.]


FLAG
By divnamite
From New York, NY
Jul 27, 2012

Isn't it the same idea as regular rappel lower out with a separate rope? I'm curious as to how safe it is to thread that cord thru a wire stopper as the fixed gear.


FLAG
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 27, 2012
Stoked...

Nice tip... i dig it.


FLAG
By Mark Hudon
Jul 27, 2012
On the North America Wall in 1977.

Yes, the whole point is that you can thread the 5 mil through the actual gear and not leave a sling.

5 mil is worth about 4,000 pounds and I can't imagine that it would take less than five or six walls to wear it enough that it breaks. Even that aside, you're still on your ascenders safetied with a back up knot.

I'm not suggesting that you'll clean the King Swing this way but a smaller pendulum or tension traverse is entirely within its scope.


Tat from Iron Hawk
Tat from Iron Hawk


This is all the tat I cleaned off the first 9 pitches of Iron Hawk. At the end of the route, I had a pile that would fill a grocery bag 3/4 full.


FLAG
By Steve86
Jul 27, 2012

This is a good idea. 20-30 ft of this cord costs hardly anything and the weight is negligible.

Thanks Mark.


FLAG
By Mark Hudon
Jul 27, 2012
On the North America Wall in 1977.

My pleasure.

Once you start using this trick, you'll be amazed at how fast it is and you'll be laughing at all the tat you bypass and at everyone who continues to use and leave tat.

Can you imagine how easy this is going to make cleaning the down-aiding section on the 4th pitch of the Trip?


FLAG
By BigJuggsjohnson
Aug 3, 2012
Stones

nice!


FLAG
By Mark Hudon
Aug 3, 2012
On the North America Wall in 1977.

That tat on Lost In America will be gone this fall, Larry, that's the route Max and I are going to do.

And yeah, Virginia, that start to the Trip is so dumb!

I have two other variations to this technique for the people who don't like lowering out on the mil cord that I'll post up soon.


FLAG
By ParkerKempf
From atlanta, GA
Aug 5, 2012
sweet belay on El Cap Spire, Salathe Wall El Capitan

f'ing awesome


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.