Clean Underwear 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Brian and Jonathon Smoot 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jun 8, 2003 |
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Thomas at the start.
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Description On the east end of The Upper Wall are many bolted lines. This is the 2nd from the east. It starts atop a small pedestal. It then climbs juggy roofs to the anchors.
Protection 2 bolts for the anchors and 4 draws for the climb.
Talia on the big roof of Clean Underwear.
| Don't fall here or you'll deck on lead. I suggest...
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| Comments on Clean Underwear |
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By Lee Gitlin May 13, 2004 rating: 5.9
| The crux is right after the second bolt. We went right of the bolt. Lots of nice jugs and body position is helpful, since the route is steep. This route shares anchors with the .10a immediately west. |
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Apr 29, 2006 rating: 5.9
| As of 4/29/2006, there are separate anchors for Urban Sprawl (5.10a) to the left (west). |
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Sep 8, 2006 rating: 5.9
| There are so many chalked "holds" at the crux, it's not even funny any more. Last time i was warming-up on this route without paying too much attention to what I was doing and I did a long reach for something that was about as covered in chalk as this flake on one of the Gate boulders. I was expecting a bucket-sized jug, it turned out to be a sloppy old bulge that would have felt good on a 5.13... I decked on the ramp below and was almost too scared to get back up to retrive my draw before bailing... |
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jul 23, 2007 rating: 5.9+ R
| Whats with the spacy bolting on one of the harder parts of the climb with potential decking on the big boulder? Definitely don't try going left of the bolt or left up the roof makes it a lot harder and scarier. |
By Michael Buchanan Apr 20, 2010 rating: 5.8
| Fun. Chill. One of my first leads years ago. |
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Mar 12, 2012
| To stay left at the crux requires a pretty good ape-index. I'd advise staying right if you don't have one! |
By Mark Alston Mar 17, 2013 rating: 5.9
| Lots of false chalked holds at the crux (2nd bolt) on the left. Everyone and his dog has chalked up are desperately grabbed for holds that way. Go right after 2nd bolt and you will be good. Psyched me out first attempt and wasted a ton of energy trying to go left. |
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