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 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Moveable Flake T 
Allosaur T 
Auntie Perspirant T 
Blind Mouse T 
Blues Power T 
Clean Freak T 
Crow's Landing T 
Earnest Stemmingway T 
Ernest Extended Way T 
Exterminator, The T 
Farmer's Wife, The T 
First Unknown T 
Flyback T 
Foaming Cleanser T 
Initial Hangover T 
Initial Route T 
Jam Con T 
Kickin' Chicken T,S 
Leg of Ilg T 
Mineral Maze S 
Morning Thunder T 
Odarodle T 
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 
Party Pooper T 
Piece Easy T 
Pork Chop T 
Quo Vadis T 
Ranger Danger T 
Roadside Attraction T,S 
Runsholl Scrunch T 
Shot and Chaser T 
Sleepytime T 
Something Blue T 
Stepping Stones T 
Super Scooper T 
Territorial Integrity T,TR 
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 
Thunderworld T 
Up the Downclimb T 
Verschneidung T 
Water Line T,S 
Wild Turkey S 
Wingshot T 
Wishbone T,S 

Clean Freak 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steven Lucarelli and Joseph Crotty, September 2007
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 591
Submitted By: Joseph P. Crotty on Oct 24, 2007

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'Clean Freak' line of ascent with belays circled.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 5.9, 120': From a solid tree on a comfortable ledge, scramble up and right onto a gentle slab and pull over a rotten bulge. Move slightly left and join a finger crack to a ledge then up and right around an awkward 5.9 corner to the left end of a large slab system. Climb the aręte to your immediate left onto a face and up into an open alcove then up through the rotten bulge past a small pine tree and onto a large slab at the top of the ridge. Establish a belay on the far left side of the slab near the base of the tower with the shallow, left-facing dihedral.

P2 5.12a ~60': Psyche up for the shallow, left-facing corner on the tower. First 35' packs a wallop with a bouldery .12a funky corner/face sequence into a dead vertical power-endurance finger crack with poor feet.

First pitch previously climbed by Steve Levin (AKA 'Dog Patch') but included here with permission. The second pitch was done ground up and involved some cleaning.

Thanks to Rob Kepley for lending a helping hand in this endeavor.

Location 

Hike up the West Ridge passing the Amphitheater area and locate two enormous boulders near the cliff base that force the trail to detour Westward. This is downhill from the Verschneidung area. Route is in between the climbs Crow’s Landing and High Anxiety. To descend scramble down the ridge about 100’ and down climb a series of easy features aiming for a tree with rappel slings on the route ‘Up the Downclimb’. Rappel and make a short scramble back to the West Ridge trail.

Protection 

SR with extra finger-sized cams and one Camalot #3 to supplement the last belay at the top of the tower.


Comments on Clean Freak Add Comment
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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

I think the 12a pitch might be worthy of 3 stars, but the 1st pitch is really loose and scary once you get to the small pine tree.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Oct 25, 2007

Climbing can be scary?
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2007

Dogpatch (5.8 R) is (was) just a short by-pass, connecting the first pitch of Crow's Landing to Auntie Perspirant, but avoiding the 5.10 R Auntie Perspirant crux. It is the arete in the P1 description. Never reported and very obscure, it's only redeeming feature was avoidance of harder shit-climbing. I would also rate the first pitch as described 5.10-.

Good job on the corner, been looking at that a long time!