|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1500', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Bryan Burdo and Yann Merrand|
|Season:||June to September|
|Submitted By:||brandonia on Jul 15, 2014|
|Comments on Clean Break||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jul 19, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Some additional firsthand beta... Having done it both ways, I'd say that the best ascent/descent path is to climb from silverstar creek, up and over Juno and descend to Bench Camp on the west side of the wine spires. Gotta hitch a ride or stash some bikes though.
A little more... Unless you're a rockin thin hand crack climber, or have tiny hands, bring an extra .75, and maybe .5. The first pitch is by and far the hardest pitch of the route, with the ".10b" bulge easily being the crux IMO. It's pretty hard, harder than some of the 5.11 pitches out there. The rest of the 5.10 pitches are cruiser though, soft .10a's.... so don't be dissuaded by the hard first pitch... as I've heard people mention bailing after that pitch because of the perceived difficult nature of the route.
This route climbs super fast for it's size and is of high quality.
From: Oakridge, OR
Sep 14, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
#4 is no longer there *sheepish look*. If you want to save weight get a big tricam :)
Great route! Led every pitch and got some calf burn (perhaps de to the hike). Get an EARLY start or else you'll get benighted like me and end up bushwhacking in the dark for hours and hours...
By Derek Soike
Jun 10, 2015
We climbed Clean Break last weekend (6/6/2015).
Went up and over Burgundy Col, dropped down quite a bit on the back side, and traversed skiier's left for a while to the base of the climb.
The snow was friendly. We glissaded the big drop just over Burgundy Col. Just brought axes, didn't need crampons.
Super fun! I'd definitely recommend doing it, and will definitely go back and repeat it at some point. The first pitch is great! I didn't find it to be much more difficult than other parts of the route, but I do personally prefer a crack of any size to a delicate traverse.
Route finding was pretty straightforward as long as you follow the beta. We thought we might have been off-route a couple times on the last 500ft of simul-climbing, but realized we were on-track the whole time when we hit the summit.
The only spot where a #4 was truly useful was the swooping crack on pitch 7. Just bring one #4.
We descended the west side, dropping some and then traversing over to Burgundy Col, back to Bench Camp. We never felt like we were on an obvious climber's trail.
Aug 24, 2015
We did this route in 13 hours descending thru Bench Camp. We had a #4 but I forgot it on the pitch where it was needed. If you are solid on 10s a #4 is not necessary. Approach about 3 hrs.
12 real pitches plus 200 meters of make up your own rock climb at the end. P1 is not 10c-- felt like 10a-- loads of gear and stances.
A great route. Superb rock and position and great views. Do this.