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White Fandango T 

Claw Marks 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FA: Some Douche Bag, 7/1980
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: MJMobes on Aug 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

hard start(crux) with solid cam to keep you off the ground. very pumpy start all the way to the ledge 25' up. second crux is up high, a little hard to protect especially if under 6'tall. good warmup for White Fandango.

Location 

this route is 15' left of White Fandango and starts below a double crack that takes you to the ledge. from there go left up dihedral to tree anchor.

Protection 

normal rack, maybe an extra .75 and #1 camalot would be nice too.


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By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Aug 16, 2008

route is listed in some books as 5.6
I'd say its harder than Pegasus
By Clint Cummins
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 4, 2009

FA: Ken Nichols, 7/1980

listed as 5.7 R in the 1995 guidebook
By Kurtz
Jul 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Looks like a whole bunch of rock sloughed off the beginning of the climb. Not much pro available.
By CTdave
From: Wallingford, CT
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

I don't think its harder than Pegasus but those first few moves aren't 5.6 like the CT guidebook says. It's definitely a fun start. The top is tough to protect but its easy cruising up there