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 ADVANCED
Right Side Gully
Select Route:
Adaptive Expectations S 
Capitalism & Freedom S 
Classically Liberal S 
Consumption Dysfunction S 
Free to Choose S 
Invisible Hand S 
Natural Rate of Unemployment S 
Permanent Income Hypothesis S 
Rose T 

Classically Liberal 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jesse Groves & Matthew Fienup, October 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 903
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 23, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Red: Classically Liberal (5.10d)
Yellow: Consumpti...

Description 

This route is very unusual for the Fortress--steep and strenuous with lots of dynamic movement. Many of the holds on the route are opposing side-pulls or pinches.

The decisive crux of the route is passing the second bolt. The remainder of the route checks in at sustained 5.9.


Location 

This route and its 10a neighbor are located on the front-most and right-most flatiron in the Fortress. From the base of "Free to Choose," traverse 40 yards right to the start of the route. "Classically Liberal" is the right-hand of 2 routes on the formation.


Protection 

6 lead bolts (1/2" Rawls) plus 2 open shuts (11kN Fixe Supershuts). Carry a #1 or #2 TCU to really sew it up below the final lead bolt.

Be careful when clipping the second bolt as a fall with slack out will result in ground-fall (less confident climbers can pre-hang a draw or even stick-clip the second bolt from the ground). Once clipped, the second bolt offers excellent protection through the crux sequence.



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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 23, 2007

Shorter climbers may find that clipping the second bolt is a little reachy and off balance.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 21, 2008

This route stands out in my mind for its unique moves on rock of surprisingly good quality. The crux, as I recall, seemed quite balancy and technical. Definetely not a thoughtless jug-pull! The upper section stays moderately engaging at 5.9.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 25, 2009

This route is 5.11a or b if you stay close to the second bolt. It is possible to climb six feet to the right around the crux, dropping the grade to about 5.10c.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 17, 2011

I second Matt's comment. Don't stray from the direct line of travel and deny yourself the crux! If you misread the sequence past the second bolt, it can feel like 5.12 (as it did for me when I first tried it). Otherwise, with correct beta, the moves emerge elegantly. I don't know how much traffic this climb has received as of late, but this is a MUST DO route at The Fortress. Certainly in my Fortress Top-Five.

By tim coates
From: ventura,ca
Apr 20, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Just got on this today. I was able to clip the 2nd bolt on lead, although it was a stretch at 5' 8'.
Great addition to the area. Challenging and technical. Nice job Matthew!