Head up the bouldery moves on the left crack. There is a easier low crux, and then some thin hand jams/lieback up to a steep ledge (looks like a huge ledge from below). The second part of the climb heads up the obvious right facing corner with great, though steep and sharp, hand jamming/stemming. Probably one of the better hand cracks on the sunny side of the canyon.
To the right of the large boulder, located down the small hill to the climbers left of the Better than Mecca alcove.
Single rack, doubles of .75 and #1 camalots.
|By Brian Boyd|
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I placed red and gold camalots in the upper corner. A couple of blue camalots (#3) are also useful.
From: Prescott, AZ
Feb 26, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Prescott climbing book has this as a 10c. Maybe more like an "a" or "b" depending on hand size. Fantastic climbing, loads of fun. Starts with a wonderful clean lie-back, to a rest before the hand crack. I used up to a #3 friend (not BD), doubles in hand sizes are great.