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 ADVANCED
Lower Sullivan's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
911 T 
?Como Se Llama? T 
Apple Pie T 
Baby Please Dont Go T 
Better Than Mecca T 
Bohemian T 
Cellulose T 
Classic T 
Classified T 
Dancing Partner T 
Dirty Dog Ditty T 
Distant Vision T 
Easy Option T 
Finger Licking Good T 
Free Wheel T 
Freedom Falls T 
Gemstone T 
Jump Start T 
Left of Slipstream TR 
Mrs Whittaker T 
Neo-Classic T 
Potluck T 
Sharp End T 
Slipstream T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Tight Wad T 
Virtuoso T 
Wheeler Dealer T 
Unsorted Routes:

Classic 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Goff and Rusty Baillie
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on Apr 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Head up the bouldery moves on the left crack. There is a easier low crux, and then some thin hand jams/lieback up to a steep ledge (looks like a huge ledge from below). The second part of the climb heads up the obvious right facing corner with great, though steep and sharp, hand jamming/stemming. Probably one of the better hand cracks on the sunny side of the canyon.

Location 

To the right of the large boulder, located down the small hill to the climbers left of the Better than Mecca alcove.

Protection 

Single rack, doubles of .75 and #1 camalots.


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By Brian Boyd
Administrator
From: Kowloon, Hong Kong
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I placed red and gold camalots in the upper corner. A couple of blue camalots (#3) are also useful.
By presto
From: Prescott, AZ
Feb 26, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Prescott climbing book has this as a 10c. Maybe more like an "a" or "b" depending on hand size. Fantastic climbing, loads of fun. Starts with a wonderful clean lie-back, to a rest before the hand crack. I used up to a #3 friend (not BD), doubles in hand sizes are great.