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 ADVANCED
b. Jackie and friends
Routes Sorted
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5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
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Badcliff T 
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Betty T 
Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Habanero Balls T,TR 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
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P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
RMC T 
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Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unsorted Routes:

Classic 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Borghoff, Brownell Bergen, 1960
Page Views: 6,682
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (172)
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Becky Diamond

Description 

This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.

Start on top of the boulder pile right of Jackie, at a thin crack.

P1: The crux moves are right off the deck with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.

P2: Follow a dihedral on the left to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.

Descent: At various times, the trees at the clifftop may or may not sport webbing and rings for rappelling. The Uberfall Descent is the best option, as you won't be able to see or hear the busy cliff below.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Classic Slideshow Add Photo
moving left on pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: moving left on pitch 1
Pulling through the overhang.
Pulling through the overhang.
Damun Farnum at the anchors shared by Jackie and C...
Damun Farnum at the anchors shared by Jackie and C...
Just below the roof on Classic.
Just below the roof on Classic.
Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
BETA PHOTO: Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
Classic 5.7, looking back down on the second pitch
Classic 5.7, looking back down on the second pitch
2nd pitch of Classic.
2nd pitch of Classic.
2nd pitch of Classic as the sun is setting.
2nd pitch of Classic as the sun is setting.
The start of Classic.  Paul is standing on the cru...
BETA PHOTO: The start of Classic. Paul is standing on the cru...
Classic 5.7 pitch 1
Classic 5.7 pitch 1

Comments on Classic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 9, 2006

A great (and challenging) variation to this is Classy 5.8. It climbs the crack to the right and traverses left under the roof. Pull through the roof right of the tree.
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007

It's really too bad that P2 seems to have suffered "death by bolts" - I rarely see anyone climb it, now that the bolt anchors are there. It's a great little pitch, and it's really pretty quick to knock out and walk off; given the usual crowds, it's a good option!
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a really fun route! There is one balancy, tricky move near the begniing but the rest of the route is 5.6-5.7
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 23, 2009

Don't fall in the first 25 ft. Otherwise, super fun route. The roof at the top is Classic!
By David Ford
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 18, 2011

The second pitch is great climbing on wonderful rock. Definitely worth it to top out and walk off.
By Meghan Spiro
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There's a small foot at the crux to avoid smearing on the glazed rock.
By wivanoff
Apr 9, 2013

I heard someone replaced the second pin on Classic in March/April 2013
Link
By JSH
Administrator
May 7, 2013

Thank Dog!
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Feb 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route with awesome moves and a great view of Millbrook!