Classic 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Mike Borghoff, Brownell Bergen, 1960 |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.
Start on top of the boulder pile right of Jackie, at a thin crack.
P1: The crux moves are right off the deck with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.
P2: Follow a dihedral on the left to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.
Descent: At various times, the trees at the clifftop may or may not sport webbing and rings for rappelling. The Uberfall Descent is the best option, as you won't be able to see or hear the busy cliff below.
Protection Standard Rack
Just below the roof on Classic.
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Damun Farnum at the anchors shared by Jackie and C...
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2nd pitch of Classic.
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2nd pitch of Classic as the sun is setting.
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BETA PHOTO: The start of Classic. Paul is standing on the cru...
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Pulling through the overhang.
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Becky Diamond
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BETA PHOTO: moving left on pitch 1
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Classic 5.7, looking back down on the second pitch
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Classic 5.7 pitch 1
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By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 9, 2006
| A great (and challenging) variation to this is Classy 5.8. It climbs the crack to the right and traverses left under the roof. Pull through the roof right of the tree. |
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007
| It's really too bad that P2 seems to have suffered "death by bolts" - I rarely see anyone climb it, now that the bolt anchors are there. It's a great little pitch, and it's really pretty quick to knock out and walk off; given the usual crowds, it's a good option! |
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+
| This is a really fun route! There is one balancy, tricky move near the begniing but the rest of the route is 5.6-5.7 |
By Kalil Oldham
From: NY, NY
Aug 23, 2009
| Don't fall in the first 25 ft. Otherwise, super fun route. The roof at the top is Classic! |
By David Ford
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 18, 2011
| The second pitch is great climbing on wonderful rock. Definitely worth it to top out and walk off. |
By Meghan Spiro
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.7
| There's a small foot at the crux to avoid smearing on the glazed rock. |
By wivanoff
Apr 9, 2013
| I heard someone replaced the second pin on Classic in March/April 2013
Link |
By JSH
Administrator
May 7, 2013
| Thank Dog! |
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