|5,215 page views|
This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.
Start on top of the boulder pile right of Jackie, at a thin crack.
P1: The crux moves are right off the deck with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.
P2: Follow a dihedral on the left to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.
Descent: At various times, the trees at the clifftop may or may not sport webbing and rings for rappelling. The Uberfall Descent is the best option, as you won't be able to see or hear the busy cliff below.
Just below the roof on Classic.
Damun Farnum at the anchors shared by Jackie and C...
2nd pitch of Classic.
2nd pitch of Classic as the sun is setting.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Classic. Paul is standing on the cru...
Pulling through the overhang.
BETA PHOTO: moving left on pitch 1
Classic 5.7, looking back down on the second pitch
Classic 5.7 pitch 1
|By Adam Catalano|
From: Albany, New York
Apr 9, 2006
A great (and challenging) variation to this is Classy 5.8. It climbs the crack to the right and traverses left under the roof. Pull through the roof right of the tree.
Sep 2, 2007
It's really too bad that P2 seems to have suffered "death by bolts" - I rarely see anyone climb it, now that the bolt anchors are there. It's a great little pitch, and it's really pretty quick to knock out and walk off; given the usual crowds, it's a good option!
|By Joe M|
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This is a really fun route! There is one balancy, tricky move near the begniing but the rest of the route is 5.6-5.7
|By Kalil Oldham|
From: NY, NY
Aug 23, 2009
Don't fall in the first 25 ft. Otherwise, super fun route. The roof at the top is Classic!
|By David Ford|
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 18, 2011
The second pitch is great climbing on wonderful rock. Definitely worth it to top out and walk off.
|By Meghan Spiro|
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
There's a small foot at the crux to avoid smearing on the glazed rock.
Apr 9, 2013
I heard someone replaced the second pin on Classic in March/April 2013
May 7, 2013