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Old Easy
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Classic Splitter 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c Hueco: V-easy Font: 3

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 13'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c Hueco: V-easy Font: 3 [details]
FA: Several in the last decade
Page Views: 2,703
Submitted By: johnh on Jun 2, 2007

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My brother nearing the top.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Find Desiderata and walk Southbound along the base of the Old Easy formation for less than 100 yards. You will encounter a large pine tree next to a prominent alcove. This southeast facing crack overhangs about thirty degrees, and can be done from a stand using perfect hands, or done for full value by sit starting on fingers/tight hands.

Protection 

A pad or two, along with a spotter is nice. The landing is flat, but hard.


Photos of Classic Splitter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing some classic splitter in the college days...
Climbing some classic splitter in the college days...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starts fingers, to tight hands, perfect hands, fin...
BETA PHOTO: Starts fingers, to tight hands, perfect hands, fin...

Comments on Classic Splitter Add Comment
Show which comments
By JNE
Jun 4, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  V2 5+

Scarpelli was the first one to find and do this one, probably more than a decade ago. This is a very pretty and worthwhile line.
By molony
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  V2 5+

Remarkable, a little sharp, but that's Vedauwoo. I have to say that if you have larger hands the stand start is really tight hands, and down low sitting is more like flared, off-fingers. From the stand or the sit, this is a fun crack. Not the absolute best, but close.

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