Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
(06) The Dihedral Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baba Louie S 
Classic Jam Crack T 
Green Eggs and Ham S 
Lucky Boy S 
Quickdraw McGraw S 
Smoked Salmon T 
Stick Fort S 
Tina's Rig S 

Classic Jam Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 811
Submitted By: Eddy Daly on Aug 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: This is the best photo I have of the climb- missin...

Description 

The Classic Jam Crack is located just north (climber's left) of Lucky Boy, Baba Louie, and Quickdraw McGraw on the Dihedral Wall. A very regular crack varying from solid hands to finger stacks and ringlocks. One of the best jamming routes in the Albuquerque area.
Bernard Moret, in his guide, rates this as "mostly 5.8 with a harder start". I disagree. The start, while overcoming a bulge and jamming on just-over-vertical rock, is one of the most straight forward sections with beautiful hands. Above the bulge one enters a concavity and must overcome another bulge with the crack being more in the ringlock arena. I rate it a solid 5.9 route.

Location 

Palomas Peak on the north end of The Dihedral Wall.

Protection 

Pro in the two inch to one inch array. I used the following:
2@ #2 camalots
2@ #1 camalots
2@ #.75 camalots
2@ #.5 camalots

(I totally overprotected the route getting a handle on jamming again. This route protects very well.)


Comments on Classic Jam Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Manke
From: Edgewood, NM
Nov 3, 2008

I would agree that the crack is sustained 5.9. Getting over the first bulge is a little tricky, I found it best to cam your left hand in deep and step into the crack. The face isn't too much help on most of the climb but there are some areas where you can catch a nice break with your feet. The key to the second bulge is pulling into a lieback while you're below it. Great climb- just wish it was longer.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Sep 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route for practicing jams of various sizes and for placing cams. Very safe for a newer leader [as long as they can get up 5.9 crack]. The crux will likely be hand size dependent.