Classic Dihedral  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 70 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Matthew Fienup on Aug 5, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Classic Dihedral, at Mugu Slab. In...

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Description 

Obvious right-facing dihedral in the middle of the wall.

The most unusual feature of this route is that is once ended near a fixed anchor near the top of the wall. During the past decade, the dihedral receded 5 feet (a 5-foot wide column of rock collapsed, moving the dihedral 5 feet to the left). Now, it is nearly impossible to reach the fixed anchor. It is possible to climb to a wide ledge above and then walk off; however, this is sketchy enough that one might decide to simply down-climb and back clean the route.

Location 

Bisects the wall, with a clean slab on the right and a fractured wall on the left.

Protection 

Tiny to 2-inches.

The crack is so loose that all of the gear is sketchy (many cam placements simply open the crack wider when weighted).