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Espresso Crack T 
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Classic Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, Bill St. Jean, Robb Dellinger 5/77
Page Views: 2,362
Submitted By: Wade Griffith on Apr 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: The prominent right-leaning splitter on the upper ...

Description 

As the name suggests, a classic line. Fun steep hands up to a flaring offwidth that necks back down to hands before finishing up on a slab.


Location 

The first crag you come to once the trail tops the hill has Classic Crack splitting the middle. Gain a ramp from the left side to angle up towards the base of this route passing a splitter fingers crack called Espresso crack (5.12) on your way.


Protection 

Pro to 3.5"



Photos of Classic Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Neil Kauffman in the wide
Neil Kauffman in the wide
Mitch Musci prepares for the lip encounter after the offwidth.
Mitch Musci prepares for the lip encounter after t...
Mitch Musci tweaking some knobs low on the route.
Mitch Musci tweaking some knobs low on the route.
Comments on Classic Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
May 26, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I expected something billed as "Classic Crack" to be, well, classic. Fun climbing n' all, but I wouldn't consider it a classic, even by area standards.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Jun 13, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You will need a couple 3.5"-4.5" cams for the anchor. The only bolted anchor is found way off to the left.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2011

pretty cool route but you have to climb past some sketchy blocks about 25 feet off the ground that aren't easily protectable. gear anchor at the top is #3 camalot or #3.5. you can also tie off a dinner plate with a double length sling. walk off from there instead of rapping that anchor (which seemed like it would be heinous wear on the rope).

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
May 29, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I also thought the wedged blocks are a detriment to the climb. You can't easily avoid them and there are no other placements, a problem that near to the ground. It could really fu... mess somebody's day up if any of them (especially the big boy you stand up on) comes loose.

Also, the anchor situation bears repeating: I wound up with a single 4" Camalot anchor and just stance belayed. And I only had that piece because I'd walked it up the wide and then removed it because I didn't adequately read the description to know what the anchor situation was! Additionally, rope drag was bad and I suggest slinging as much as you are comfortable since the climb is a bit devious with bulges and a bit of a gangsta lean.

Overall, a fun climb, and I think a bit of a sandbag at 5.9. Probably in the 5.10 range like the Croft/Lewis guidebook says.

By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
May 27, 2014

for the gear anchor, there's also a BD red #1 placement in a dish with a pinching lower lip slot, located to climber's right of the crack at the top. could get away with anchoring using that and two BD blue #3's, but at least one #4 would work better. helpful to have a #4 to walk up the burly v-slot anyway, to be backcleaned to save for the topside anchor