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 ADVANCED
Cockroach Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Classic Corner T 
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 
Leatherhead Arete, The T 
R.S. Chicken Choker T 
Roach Roof T 

Classic Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Scott Cosgrove, January 1988
Page Views: 2,135
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Al Dude sans rope in 2006.

Description 

Not much ambiguity here. It's a clean, right angle, right facing dihedral, into a roof, which you pass with the handcrack on the right.

There is (or was, as of January 1, 2003) a loose block a few feet up in the crack. You can choose to either crank on it, thereby changing the lower section of the climb and possibly injuring your belayer, or carefully avoid it, thereby leaving the climb intact. I recommend the latter. :)

There's a downclimb to climber's left.

Protection 

This corner pretty much soaks up gear; you can sink as much of a standard rack into it as you want, but won't need anything particularly large (up to a #2 Camalot is fine) or small (leave the micros behind.) Save a handful of pieces for the anchor on top.


Photos of Classic Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Classic Corner
BETA PHOTO: Classic Corner
Mark nearing the top of the route.
Mark nearing the top of the route.
Matt, Phil, Dan, Ghislain
Matt, Phil, Dan, Ghislain
Fred Batliner low on the route.
Fred Batliner low on the route.
Perspective view - Stefan Harms liebacking.
Perspective view - Stefan Harms liebacking.
Fred @ the crux.
Fred @ the crux.
Gearing Up
Gearing Up
Top section. Fred Batliner climbing.
Top section. Fred Batliner climbing.
Matt, Phil, Dan, Ghislain
Matt, Phil, Dan, Ghislain

Comments on Classic Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 4, 2012
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 4, 2003

This beta photo is not of Classic Crack but rather of another route to the left called False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) (5.6)*. This climb pictured is a left-facing corner/ramp while Classic Corner is right-facing and steeper. The Leatherhead Arete (5.11a)** climbs the obvious arete between the two routes.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 20, 2004

Is anyone familiar with the unnamed (?) climb to the right of Classic Corner in the Atlantis area? It is also a dihedral climb with a good-looking crack & looks a bit steeper than Classic Corner. It is formed by the same large block that juts out to form the right side of CC.

Has it been named since Vogel's last book? Does anyone know its rating? -wingerhp
By Randy
Jan 20, 2004

The route shown in the photo is NOT Classic Corner. The corner to the right (right facing) IS Classic Corner.The route shown is appropriately named: False Classic Corner 5.6.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 3, 2004

Better than The Case of the Missing Nolina, but pretty short nonetheless (about 30').
By Blitzo
Dec 8, 2006

Good route, too bad it's not 100' longer.
By Smanson
From: Twentynine Palms, CA
Mar 7, 2009

This crack is great for hand jams!!! They are so solid and don't hurt at all!
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Mar 15, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A fun route... easy to protect and fun moves. The approach wasn't too bad. An interesting search for the walk-down, but once we found it, it was fine. Plenty of sunshine.
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

awesome, but a bit short. would get three stars if it were twice as long, 4 stars if it were 4 times as long.
By Brandontyrrell
Oct 1, 2011

I thought a Number BD C4 #4 was nice for the top, this climb loves C4 #1's
By The Gray Tradster
Feb 4, 2012

After 40+ years of climbing here, You'd of thought I'd got to this one before.

Great short route, but the exit move may be a bit of a challenge for the shorter set.

Beware!

There's about a 16" long section of the right edge of the crack that's about to part company. (Right above the welded in fixed poot)

It feels solid in compression but is completely loose, and liebacking at this point is about mandatory. Don't play with it or place gear here!