Classic Corner 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Scott Cosgrove, January 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Mark J. Nelson on Jan 1, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: Classic Corner
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Description Not much ambiguity here. It's a clean, right angle, right facing dihedral, into a roof, which you pass with the handcrack on the right.
There is (or was, as of January 1, 2003) a loose block a few feet up in the crack. You can choose to either crank on it, thereby changing the lower section of the climb and possibly injuring your belayer, or carefully avoid it, thereby leaving the climb intact. I recommend the latter. :)
There's a downclimb to climber's left.
Protection This corner pretty much soaks up gear; you can sink as much of a standard rack into it as you want, but won't need anything particularly large (up to a #2 Camalot is fine) or small (leave the micros behind.) Save a handful of pieces for the anchor on top.
Mark nearing the top of the route.
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Fred Batliner low on the route.
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Fred @ the crux.
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Top section. Fred Batliner climbing.
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Perspective view - Stefan Harms liebacking.
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Al Dude sans rope in 2006.
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Gearing Up
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Matt, Phil, Dan, Ghislain
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Matt, Phil, Dan, Ghislain
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| Comments on Classic Corner |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 4, 2003
| This beta photo is not of Classic Crack but rather of another route to the left called False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) (5.6)*. This climb pictured is a left-facing corner/ramp while Classic Corner is right-facing and steeper. The Leatherhead Arete (5.11a)** climbs the obvious arete between the two routes. |
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 20, 2004
| Is anyone familiar with the unnamed (?) climb to the right of Classic Corner in the Atlantis area? It is also a dihedral climb with a good-looking crack & looks a bit steeper than Classic Corner. It is formed by the same large block that juts out to form the right side of CC.
Has it been named since Vogel's last book? Does anyone know its rating? -wingerhp |
By Randy
Jan 20, 2004
| The route shown in the photo is NOT Classic Corner. The corner to the right (right facing) IS Classic Corner.The route shown is appropriately named: False Classic Corner 5.6. |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 3, 2004
| Better than The Case of the Missing Nolina, but pretty short nonetheless (about 30'). |
By Blitzo
Dec 8, 2006
| Good route, too bad it's not 100' longer. |
By Smanson
From: Twentynine Palms, CA
Mar 7, 2009
| This crack is great for hand jams!!! They are so solid and don't hurt at all! |
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Mar 15, 2009
rating: 5.7
| A fun route... easy to protect and fun moves. The approach wasn't too bad. An interesting search for the walk-down, but once we found it, it was fine. Plenty of sunshine. |
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.7
| awesome, but a bit short. would get three stars if it were twice as long, 4 stars if it were 4 times as long. |
By Brandontyrrell
Oct 1, 2011
| I thought a Number BD C4 #4 was nice for the top, this climb loves C4 #1's |
By The Gray Tradster
Feb 4, 2012
| After 40+ years of climbing here, You'd of thought I'd got to this one before.
Great short route, but the exit move may be a bit of a challenge for the shorter set.
Beware!
There's about a 16" long section of the right edge of the crack that's about to part company. (Right above the welded in fixed poot)
It feels solid in compression but is completely loose, and liebacking at this point is about mandatory. Don't play with it or place gear here! |
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