|State Highway 313
This route RULES! Pitch 1; Right facing crack system with the 5.11 lieback. (85') Pitch 2; Climb an O Wth crack past a drilled piton, then more O W crack (5.10+) to rap station. (80')
Climbs the W face of the cliff around the corner left from Sunset Tower. It's a little less than 2 miles past the main highway, after you turn onto State Highway 313, and it's on the right (north) side of the road.
Lots of cams;...3 or 4 each of the smaller cams, (1-2"). Large cams for the O W.
view of route from the road.
Mike on P1
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 27, 2007
This climb is fantastic; one of the best crack pitches near Moab, and could hold it's own at Indian Creek. I tried to lead this pitch, but didn't make it. Greg Epperson tried to lead this pitch, but didn't make it. Kyle Copeland took a couple of big drags from his camel cigarette, grabbed the rack, cranked into the lieback position, and SENT! Kyle, (once again), saved the day. We had a great time. This is an endurance climb that requires strength, stamima, technique, and a cool head. It's awesome.
From: moab, utah
Oct 12, 2010
Take two 5 and 6 Camalots to make the top pitch feel more comfortable but it's doable with one apiece. Two each of smaller cams protected the first pitch just fine. A good cooler weather climb, you might expect a climb like this at the Creek.
From: Moab, UT
May 29, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
An awesome route! super close to moab and barely gets any traffic! we had shade till about 12:30. SO Good, next time ill warm up more...
First anchor is good with 2 pitons and option to back it up, the 2nd pitch anchor is terrible, 1 decent piton and an old gnarly bolt and hanger, we replaced the old tat with some cord and did 2 raps back down. The top anchor could definitely use some new bolts if someone wanted to climb this awesome route and replace them.
Pro: Doubles of 4,5,6 camalots were nice, first pitch has lots of .5 ish size and i like having 3 #1's.