Class Act 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 165 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy , Charlie Fowler, Feb., 1987 |
| Submitted By: | toddgordon on May 27, 2007 |
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Kyle Copeland on Class Act. Photo; Todd...
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Description This route RULES! Pitch 1; Right facing crack system with the 5.11 lieback. (85') Pitch 2; Climb an O Wth crack past a drilled piton, then more O W crack (5.10+) to rap station. (80')
Location Climbs the W face of the cliff around the corner left from Sunset Tower. It's a little less than 2 miles past the main highway, after you turn onto State Highway 313, and it's on the right (north) side of the road.
Protection Lots of cams;...3 or 4 each of the smaller cams, (1-2"). Large cams for the O W.
view of route from the road.
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Mike on P1
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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 27, 2007
| This climb is fantastic; one of the best crack pitches near Moab, and could hold it's own at Indian Creek. I tried to lead this pitch, but didn't make it. Greg Epperson tried to lead this pitch, but didn't make it. Kyle Copeland took a couple of big drags from his camel cigarette, grabbed the rack, cranked into the lieback position, and SENT! Kyle, (once again), saved the day. We had a great time. This is an endurance climb that requires strength, stamima, technique, and a cool head. It's awesome. |
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Oct 12, 2010
| Take two 5 and 6 Camalots to make the top pitch feel more comfortable but it's doable with one apiece. Two each of smaller cams protected the first pitch just fine. A good cooler weather climb, you might expect a climb like this at the Creek. |
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