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South Peak - West Face
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Clarke's Climb 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Clarke, D. Kepler 1972
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Martin Edwards on Oct 9, 2012

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Description 

P1: Start right of the base of West Pole, and climb the left-facing corner to a point that is at the climber's right side of the West Pole roofs (70 feet).

P2: Move up and right, over the corner (not through the roof), stepping onto the West Face. Move up easier moves to the small tree above (25 feet).

P3: Move up and left to join the last pitch of West Pole (25 feet).

Location 

Climb/scramble up the beginning of Old Man's Route to gain the West Pole ledge. Clarke's Climb starts on the right side of the ledge in the corner.

Protection 

Regular Seneca Rack. There's good protection in the roof on P2 to protect the corner move.


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By John Groh
Nov 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A little run out on pitch 2... but worth doing if West Pole is busy