Clark Kent  5.10b/c PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  Errett Allen, Ken Yager Submitted By:  RichLarge on Dec 26, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

E. Allen and K. Yager at the crux on the FA.

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Description 

One of the best at Dexter. Rope drag precludes doing it in one long pitch.

P1: Start with the crux off the ground in twin thin cracks. Follow easier crack climbing and belay under a large roof about 100 feet up.

P2: Hand traverse to the right edge of the roof, then jam and stem up a very cool overhanging corner.

Location 

Routes at Dexter are hard to describe since they often look alike. A good landmark is a shallow cave close to the ground about 40-50 feet right of this route. Look for double thin cracks; the left is straight in and the right is in a shallow left-facing dihedral that arches in from the right (see photo). A large roof is easily visible above--this is the best landmark of the route.

Protection 

Thin to 3.5 inch