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Clark Canyon

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Area 13 
Main Island 
Parking Lot Rock 
Potato Patch 
Wave, The 

Clark Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,200'
Location: 37.7849, -118.91534 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44,324
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Errett Allen on Mar 3, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Michael McKay enjoys the stunning views of the Eas...

Description 

Short steep bolted sport climbs in Bishops Tuff (volcanic rock with multitudes of holes and pockets). Climbs are 40 to 200 feet and face all directions so its easy to find sun or shade and shelter from the wind.

Getting There 

About 7 miles north of the Mammoth Lakes turnoff on Rt. 395 you pass a signed rest area on the left(west). Shortly after that turn right on the Owens River Road. Drive appox. 2 miles and turn left at Big Springs Campground (Road 2S04). At just over 2 miles turn right at a fork (Road 2S06). Drive a mile to a cattle gate (please close the gates behind you), another half mile and turn right at a "T", then left through another cattle gate shortly after that. Drive another 1.7 miles to a four-way intersection, turn right and follow that to where it ends at a parking circle. The main crags are 1/4 mile up a faint trail that leads NE from the circle.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.8 miles from here

94 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',39],['2 Stars',40],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',8],['5.8',21],['5.9',12],['5.10',34],['5.11',10],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Clark Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Clark Canyon:
Bodhisattva   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Area 13 : Area 13 - Left Side
Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   Area 13 : Area 13 - Left Side
Rock Candy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Area 13 : Area 13 - Center
Wild Will's Arete   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Area 13 : Area 13 - Left Side
Digit Delight   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Area 13 : Area 13 - Left Side
Peanut Brittle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 85'   Main Island : The Alcove
Bread Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Area 13 : Area 13 - Center
I Yam   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Area 13 : Area 13 - Left Side
Ruffles   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Potato Patch : Potato 3
Pull My Finger   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 190'   Main Island : Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
Cholito   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Area 13 : Area 13 - Center
This Ain't No Weenie Roast   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Area 13 : Area 13 - Left Side
Borrowing From Tradition   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Area 13 : Area 13 - Left Side
Driller Instinct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Main Island : Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
King Spud   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Potato Patch : Potato 2
Jihad   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Island : Holy Wars Cliff
Thunderball   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Potato Patch : Potato 4
Spud Boy   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Potato Patch : Potato 2
Maltese Falcon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Island : Maltese Falcon Cliff
Dirty Dancing   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Island : Holy Wars Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Clark Canyon

Featured Route For Clark Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Thunderball (5.11c), Clark Canyon

Thunderball 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Potato 4
Technical face to pockets....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Clark Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The last bit of the drive, Clark Canyon
The last bit of the drive, Clark Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Joan Bertini rapping Area 13
Joan Bertini rapping Area 13
Rock Climbing Photo: The trail to Area 13 breaks off just uphill from t...
The trail to Area 13 breaks off just uphill from t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back towards the parking area from The Isl...
Looking back towards the parking area from The Isl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Storm clouds over Mammoth, Clark Canyon
Storm clouds over Mammoth, Clark Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Mammoth Mountain and the Sierra Crest from the par...
Mammoth Mountain and the Sierra Crest from the par...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at Area 13. Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing at Area 13. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Clark Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By tahoerider
Jul 13, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
7/13/16. The flies are super bad right now. good luck.
By Potz
Jul 25, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Road is super bad this year, and getting worse every weekend. PLEASE don't speed down the roads. Slow and steady wins the race.

The worst part of the road is getting bad enough to discourage us from accessing the crag even with AWD (terrible getting out).
By Alex Shainman
Aug 13, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Heads up to all Clark Canyon climbers...
The area had a significant wildfire burn just a couple days ago. The last bit of road, the parking area and the hillside up to Main Island is completely charred. We did not hike up so I am unsure the condition of routes but part of Parking Lot Rocks got affected.
Rock Climbing Photo: Burn
Burn


Rock Climbing Photo: Burn
Burn


Rock Climbing Photo: Burn
Burn
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 17, 2010
High(er) ground clearance vehicle recommended. You can make it in a car, but you will scrape your paint along the bushes to avoid bottoming out along the last section of road because of a high center hump. A couple other rocks had to be negotiated carefully too.
By GhaMby
From: Heaven
Jun 18, 2012
The bugs were absolutely horrible on 6/16/12, mostly horseflies and 'no-see-ums', or biting gnats. DEET didn't do any good. If you're dying to climb here go early (88 degrees in the afternoon) and wear long pants and shirts. Hopefully this is a short lived thing, cause 3 days later I look like I have chicken pox and still itch like a mo-fo despite a thick layer of benadryl cream.

Hope this helps people decide which crag to hit up. I can't wait till it cools off a bit so I can get back on some of the fine lines here.

Also there is no longer a downed tree on 2S04!
By Paisley Close
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 7, 2012
Bugs are still bad! Climbed at the Potato Patch on 6/30/12 for only a few hours in the morning. Temps were perfect but I got eaten alive. The mosquitos could get through thin long sleeves, but not the no-see-ums. The no-see-ums got me before I put the long sleeves on and 3 days later I was covered in bumps that itched like crazy. Otherwise we had a great time! And there is no tree blocking the road...
By GhaMby
From: Heaven
Aug 26, 2013
August-no bugs in the evening.

The road in is REALLY BAD! I wouldn't try unless you have a high clearance vehicle, or are willing to walk a mile or so. I have a tacoma 4x4 and thought that I may hit bottom.
By FirstNameSmith
Sep 3, 2013
There is a small formation between Area 13 and The Main Island. The formation is slightly down-hill from The Alcove and the first climbs reached in Area 13. The formation is called The Wave and has four sport routes apparently bolted in the 90's by some Japanese tourists. None of the routes have names. The Mammoth climbing guide book claims they are the following grades (from left to right) 5.11d, 5.10d, 5.8, and 5.8. I climbed all of these with a few others this past week and would argue the following grades from left to right 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.9, 5.8. The left most climb is a short 4 bolt route that goes mostly straight up with some beta-intensive moves at the slight roof, above a somewhat loose left facing flake. The 10d is immediately left of the arete and has only 3 bolts. The 2nd bolt seems to be a bit bent, but the holds for the 3rd bolt and pulling over the lip are all great. The third line starts on the arete and gradually moves right onto the face for the remainder of the climb. The last climb to the far right is a fun face climb with a nice bit of an arete at the very top. All are worth doing. Cheers.
By Alex Ethier
Jul 28, 2014
"... drive another 1.7 miles to a four-way intersection, turn right and follow that to where it ends at a parking circle."

Don't take your new Bentley on the last stretch of the fire road. Park and walk the last stretch.
The road is really narrow and WILL scratch your car.
By Crimpanzee
From: San Francisco, California
Sep 2, 2014
I would like to stress that a 4x4 and/or high clearance vehicle is recommended. I almost got stuck here on Sunday in my front wheel drive sedan. There is only one real nasty section, and it's somewhere in the middle. It's high clearance combined with a good hill. Going down was mostly ok. Going up was a few tires spinning and some creative thinking. Also, ditto on the paint scratches for the last section.

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