Clandestine Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: With Shot Through the Heart drawn in
The best difficult crag in the Sandias. Skinwalker may be the best 5.10 pitch in the entire range and Autumn Ivy and Cat Daddy are must-dos for the Sandia hardman.
Approach per Muralla Grande
, but do not drop into the gully leading south into Chimney Canyon. Instead contour around to the east on a faint trail until you reach the top of the crag and the first unobstructed view of The Sentinel
. Rap in or walk down around the formation to the south.
Routes from left to right (Information provided by Lee, see below comment) Boogers & Chocolate
(5.9): Morning Wood
(easier than 5.10):
Dossier (5.11): Shallow left facing corner.
Wiretap (5.10): Fun horizontals to roof then flaring cracks and lower angle.
Unknown (5.10): I was told by someone that this was actually Wiretap? Cloak and Dagger
(5.10+): Starts off the left end of a ledge and climbs a crack though a series of roofs to the top of the wall. Autumn Ivy
(5.12-): Starts off the right end of the ledge and climbs thin crack and some face moves to an anchor on a ledge, can lower with a 70m. Cat Daddy
(5.13-): Next crack right of Autumn Ivy
, climb the crack till it peeters out then hard moves to the Event Horizon
anchor, or continue up worse rock and heavy lichen to the Autumn Ivy
anchor. Event Horizon
(5.14-): The obvious bolt line that heads straight up the immaculate red wall, shares the first 2 bolts of Thunderstruck
(5.13-): The right trending bolted arete.
(?) unknown (5.10?): There may be a route on the wall right of the gully that is 5.10 or 5.11.
Climbing Season For the Chimney Canyon area.
Weather station 0.3 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Clandestine Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Clandestine Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Clandestine Wall:
Morning Wood 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Wiretap 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'
Skinwalker 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'
Autumn Ivy 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Cat Daddy 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Thunderstruck 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75'
Event Horizon 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 95'
Featured Route For Clandestine Wall
Cat Daddy 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c NM
: Sandia Mountains
: ... : Clandestine Wall
This was for a long time the hardest completed route in the Sandias and unrepeated on lead. Climbs the obvious crack splitting the steep red wall. The majority of the route is probably hard 5.11+ to a difficult and technical boulder problem at the top.Climb the varied and steep crack till it pinches off as it curves to the right, do crux moves onto the slab and step right to the bolted anchor of Event Horizon or step back left and climb crumbly rock with a fair bit of lichen to the ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Overview of Clandestine Wall showing routes. Autu...
looking toward the harder lines on this wall.
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 4, 2008
Routes from left to right, I think,
1. unknown easier than 5.10
2. unknown easier than 5.10
3. Dossier 5.11 shallow left facing corner
4. Wiretap 5.10 fun horizontals to roof then flaring cracks and lower angle
5. unknown 5.10 I was told by someone that this was actually Wiretap?
6. Cloak and Dagger 5.11, if this is not the right location Bill, please post a change
7. Skinwalker 5.10+ starts off the left end of a ledge and climbs a crack though a seris of roofs to the top of the wall
8. Autum Ivy 5.12- starts off the right end of the ledge and climbs thin crack and some face moves to an anchor on a ledge, can lower with a 70m
9. Cat Daddy 5.13- next crack right of autum ivy, climb the crack till it peeters out then hard moves to the event horizon anchor, or continue up worse rock and heavey lichen to the autum ivy anchor
10. Event Horizon 5.14- the obvious bolt line that heads straight up the imaculate red wall, shares the first 2 bolts of thunderstruck
11. Thunderstruck 5.12+ the right trending bolted arete
12. unknown 5.10? I belive there is a route on the wall right of the gully that is 5.10 or 5.11
If anyone has more info on the unknow routes or if I've short changed you on a grade or something please let me know.
From: The 505
Aug 4, 2008
Cloak and Dagger is the route left of Skinwalker. You got it right Lee, now you should go do it and let me know what you think.
By Paul Davidson
May 5, 2010
One of you guys should take the time and the overview pic and sketch in the routes via different color lines. With at least 12 known routes, it might get a bit busy but that's easily solved.
It would be cool to see all the new routes w/ their names.
New is a relative term...
By Matthias Lang
Oct 12, 2012
For reference. If you extend the rap tree anchor with a cordalette for about 6 feet, ONE 70 meter rope should JUST get you on top of the boulder that is the start of Wiretap. I tried this with ONE half rope, which might have a little more stretch, so be careful!