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Penny Lane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Satan's slit T 
Clandestine Affair T 
Climb & Punishment T 
Crime Of The Century T 
Drain Evader T,TR 
Health Hazard T 
Kahoukers T 
Partners In Crime T 
Penny Lane T 
Popeye and the Raven S 
Power Windows T,S 
Quarryman T 
Red Rocket T 
Short People T 
Sunny Days in December T 
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 
Up, Up and Away T 
Werewolves of London T 
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 
Yorkshire Gripper T 
Unsorted Routes:

Clandestine Affair 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton, 1981
Page Views: 962
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on May 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the crack left of The Yorkshire Gripper. It starts with a few good finger locks, then some good hand jamming until an obvious traverse to the left. The traverse is the crux, but if you just stick in a good piece and launch into it, whether you see a sequence or not, you shouldn't have too much trouble.

There are two additional variations:
1. Start from the ground and go directly up to the crack by passing a rotten roof. Now listed in the guidebook at 10d, although I had done it prior to the book's publication and had noted 10c in my previous edition. 10d sounds good since the second time I tried it, while it was seeping, I couldn't commit to the moves. The crumbly rock in the roof will keep the grade a moving target.
2. Instead of doing the upper traverse, go straight up the face. Bold 11c apparently.

Location 

This climb starts as for Quarryman, but then traverses the obvious ledge under Popeye and the Raven (place a piece at this point) and then under The Yorkshire Gripper to the crack a few feet left of the Gripper. There are chains at the top.

Protection 

Aside from the traverse to the base of the crack, the protection is excellent throughout. A standard rack up to a 3" cam will suffice.


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By Alpine Carl
May 31, 2007

This is a great route, but gets surprisingly little traffic. Get some!
By john tetzlaff
Jun 17, 2013

If the direct start is dry its safe and fun, or wet its still safe and fun. Blue collar all the way.
there's also another start just to the left of the direct, can't find it in my guide book.
Its excellent though. Not sure I would put a cam in the first horizontal, the others I would.
After pulling the moves (crux) Stand up clip the bolt traverse (R) into the crack. Fun balance moves with hard to see feet.
By Alex Charmoz
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014

do this climb