|West Buttress - South
The striking and enjoyable arÍte just left of the classic Shock and Awe is, in my opinion, just as classic due to the position and crux moves. But then again, I'm a huge fan of arÍtes and airy, exposed climbing. If you're like me in that respect, you're sure to enjoy this fine line.
From the same big ledge belay for Shock and Awe, head slightly down and left to get to the start of the arÍte. Clip a couple of bolts from good holds to a small roof/bulge. Figure out how best to pull this bulge and then clamber up the tiny dihedral past a few more bolts to a good ledge below the obvious arÍte crux above.
Slap and heel hook the arÍte and pull through a few committing moves to the great clip hold above the crux allowing you to get established in the huge hueco just right of the arÍte. Take a moment to enjoy the airy and exposed position before making the final moves to the anchor.
According to Bingham's book, the 5.11c crux can be avoided by going far right of the huge hueco near the crux. I didn't try this and think that would be quite a pendulum swing if you didn't make it. The crux moves are cool and well protected so you might as well keep it real on the arÍte.
Just left of Shock and Awe is this obvious bolted arÍte.
10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Bingham's book description suggests medium cams for the cracks in the tiny dihedral about half way but I didn't feel the gear necessary. Note that a 70m rope won't get you all the way back down to terra firma from the big ledge below the start of these routes. With a 70m rope you can lower your partner all the way down (just barely) but the last person will have to downclimb in the corner below this route.
|By Mike Engle|
Jul 25, 2011
Marked down in star rating for a significantly avoidable crux. IMO, Classic FA error of forcing the line instead of following the natural features.
|By dave bingham|
Oct 13, 2011
The above description of the crux options is a bit misleading. It's 11c-ish if you stay on the arete. If you go right and use the big hueco it's easier (11a-ish).